My comment on thermal batteries were for 200 hr, 500 hr cycles. Er, they can hold the heat for 2 to 3 weeks, with only single digit percentages loss in heat. So, sand based, brick based thermal batteries at 300 to 800 °F. For residential usage, it would be like a big A/C condenser sized unit sitting outside your house. Scale it up for bigger buildings.
This should push the use of burning gas for electricity further down, if the primary use for electricity at night is heating that is. If not, Li-ion or other EV type battery has to reduce their leakage rates. Otherwise, hydrogen or related gas is probably it.
Part of this harkens back to my comment about using the right climate inputs. The need for heating during winter will decrease in the future. Someone probably has done the math for it (for every increased degree in average temp, there will x amount of decrease energy needed for heating), and if you model say a +5 °F warmer winter, and you have to wonder if the grid, people would even bother with long term storage. Like average lows in NYC winter won't be below freezing anymore, and average highs could be in the low 50s. Will Manhattan even cool down?
Your water base HVAC system heats and chills water through a heat pump to both heat and chill water? That water is then pumped through the house. Does it use radiators in each room? A heat exchanger with a central air handling system and ducting?
There are companies that sell systems using water as a thermal reservoir, like Harvest energy, but they mostly sell it a carbon reduction technology, where it uses CASIO solar to heat water during the day and use it to heat the house at night. California's heating needs are modest though. If you are in NYC, its fuel mix doesn't really support the sales pitch.
Regarding our HVAC system, there's so much to laugh at.
First, the basics: On the roof, we have a SpacePak
LAHP48 heat-pump that's connected to the basement by 1.5 inch copper pipes carrying a water/glycol mix. In the basement, there's a water tank that buffers the heat so that there's some inertia. Then there's three secondary water loops carrying water to the three habitation floors, each of which has a
WCSP-4860JV air handler that uses the chilled/heated water to chill or heat the air. That air is drawn in via one big A/C duct similar to what you'd see in a suburban house, but is then fed back to the rooms via small-diameter (2 inch) high-velocity air tubes that can be snaked through the walls and ceilings of a house that was built in 1901, well before A/C was a design consideration. For reasons I don't understand, the air tubes cost
$10/ft. We have about 60 individual tubes ranging from 10 to 40 feet long.
Now for the humor (at my suffering)...
We don't own just one heat-pump, we own THREE! The person who installed this system got oversold pretty hard by an incompetent installer who's no longer an approved SpacePak contractor. Each heat-pump is "4 ton", meaning 48,000 BTU/hr of cooling, which exceeds the entire building's peak needs by a factor of two. I use an Emporia energy monitoring kit that I'd highly recommend -- for $50 you some snap inductive sensors around the wires in your breaker box and it reports 5-minute current data to the cloud so you can use their iPhone app to view historical data or to download the raw data as CSV; works well -- and I can look at the current usage for the HVAC circuit and observe that on the hottest days of summer or the coldest days of winter, the heat pump cycles roughly 20 minutes on / 20 minutes off. During that time, watching some temperature sensors I duct-taped to the pipes, I can observe that the water temperature climbs to 120 degrees (or down to 40 in summer), and then shuts off until an opposing set point is reached and then the system switches back on. So the idea that this house needed three of these beasts is just insane. All three connect to the same heat buffer in the basement, and all three units are functional, but we disabled two of them at the breaker. If anybody in the NYC area wants a perfectly functional $10,000 SpacePak heat-pump and can figure out how to get it off of my roof, it's yours. The next $25,000 of debugging and maintenance labor are your problem.
I have a masters degree in EE from MIT, and when the guy we hired to replace the guy we fired couldn't figure out how our system was wired (at $220 / hr for more than a dozen hours with very little concrete progress other than pitching us on installing a brand new system), I had to dust off my (mostly unused) EE debugging skills to figure it out. I understand electricity, but not HVAC standards, so this was first-principles-only brute-force.
For example, there's a silly number of low-voltage control wires running between the basement and the roof and to the other floors with no apparent logic, so I bought a variety pack of kids colored masking tapes and correlated which bundles were which on each end:
Oh, and good luck with the wiring inside the HVAC cabinet:
The manual documents the system's internal wiring with useful descriptors like "Digital Input #7" (not kidding, that one cost me dozens of hours). See the system is run by a generic microcontroller-based software platform that supports HVAC, dishwashers, boilers, and many other seemingly unrelated devices, so it's behavior is at best under-documented, and even if you understand this multi-device platform (like 10 ppl on Earth), to predict its behavior you need to know the values of various configuration registers, such as P104, which controls the alarming behavior of digital input #7, which SpacePak connected to a failure-prone current sensing system, and by poking the buttons on the panel in a very specific order you can enter a "root password" and modify the control registers, cycling through the register sets named by a letter ("P", "K", "H", etc) and then there's about a hundred registers in each set, each holding an 8-bit value from from 0 to 255, and we had to change P104 from 101 to 0 to disable the false positive overcurrent alarms that were shutting the machine off after anywhere between 3 hrs to 3 days of operation. The heat pump's customization of the microcontroller platform isn't documented, so you absolutely have to talk to SpacePak tech support to do anything, and half of the time I'm paying the contractor $220/hr, they are sitting on my roof hold waiting on hold for a support agent to tell them which buttons to press in what order. There's also a special power resistor kit that you can install inline with the 230V supply wires to fix one of the main causes of unreliability -- they will send it to you for free if you ask nicely. It's like a mad science project where you freeze to death until you figure it out.
Eventually, I worked out that the original installer had created the following situation: Each floor had a thermostat connected to that floor's air-handler, and each air-handler controlled one of the three rooftop heat pumps, all three of which fed to the same heat buffer. This meant that if one floor called for cooling while another floor called for heating, then 230V x 28 Amps of heating would enter a deathmatch with 230V x 28 Amps of cooling (the spec says 30 amps, but it really only pulls 28). I think the heating will eventually win by a hair, but both floors would receive middle-temperature air for a long time while the electric meter spins wildly in circles. I had that happen to me on a much smaller HVAC system in a California rental (I lived there 2 years before escaping) and it can do dramatic things for your power bill.
Ultimately, what prevented the power-spiral-of-death from ever happening was that the prior owner had allowed air bubbles to develop in the coolant lines to two of the units such that instead of running they would flash an "FL 1" error code to tell you "low flow rate" (zero flow). Which meant that all floors could receive cooling as long as the middle floor's thermostat was calling for it (causing the one functional heat pump to run, providing double the building's cooling requirement), but if that middle floor didn't feel like cooling, the other floors would just blow warm air. Or if the middle floor wanted heating and the third floor wanted cooling, the third flow would blow heated air, causing that thermostat to call for even more anti-cooling. This was particularly awkward given that we'd divided the building into a two-family house with renters living upstairs.
Wait, can't the circulation pump fix the air-bubble? No, of course not! The pumps in the basement can maintain circulation when the pipe is full, but they don't have the pressure head to be able to force water 50 feet up to the roof when there's no water in the return line. So you need to manually prime the lines when they develop an air pocket like this. You might think that priming a coolant line would be a standard procedure that the contractors would just show up and perform, but none of them could seem to figure it out. Heck, I struggled to even convince them of the root cause. There's no flow sensors or anything like that, only your human deduction, and by manually applying 120V to the circulation pump in the basement, I could hear water rushing for a few seconds until the pump stagnated, and then when I removed power, I could hear the water rushing back down under the force of gravity -- that's the only evidence I had, and while it was conclusive to me, the contractor wasn't convinced, or at minimum wasn't convinced that the problem wouldn't be even better solved by an $18,000 upgrade to change out all of the pumps for SpacePak's preferred brand of circulation pump -- with that guy we were at an impasse over the acceptable financial scale for solving a low-urgency problem on our backup units. With the third contractor, I told them I warrantied the electrical aspects of the system and they were only responsible for fixing the coolant plumbing, which was intimidating to me at the time, but they couldn't figure out how to get the water all the way to the top. They were using a garden hose and a $30 external pump I had purchased from Amazon (the pump thy brought didn't work) to bump up the pressure head, but that still wasn't enough pressure until I told them to "just trust me" and close the valve from the return line to the tank while opening the drainage valve on the return line so that the air pocket could vent, removing a few dozen psi of back-pressure.
Once I understood the system, it was easy to fix the control scheme. The SpacePak heat pump receives commands not by the US standard HVAC control scheme, but by a semantically equivalent scheme where instead of true/false being communicated by a single wire being either 24V or 0V, true/false is communicated by pairs of wires being either shorted or open. So I took the on/off wire pair from all three air-handler systems and connected them in parallel to the one functional heat pump. This way, any one system shorting the wire pair turns on the heat-pump and it's no problem if multiple systems short the wires at the same time. It's just three relays closing in parallel.
I figured out the control scheme by staring at this relay box until it made sense to me:
There's one of those near each air-handler converting the thermostat's US-standard signalling to the equivalent SpacePak control scheme. Now you can see why there's so many different wires running all over the place.
For controlling heating vs cooling, since it's a whole-house decision, I put a light-switch on the third floor with red tape on the top and blue tape on the bottom, and we change that switch exactly twice a year. This works really well because there's several weeks to a few months in the spring and fall where we don't use either heating or cooling, and the upstairs tenants always want to switch modes before we do, so by the time we care, it's always in the right mode. They just text us when they make the switch. Simple. Effective. Not something I want to be automatic. The system has been reliable for over a year now, it just took a lot of work to get there.
Those are only the highlights along the critical path. I also had a lot of red herrings like rewiring the rooftop boost transformers because our 208V being closer to 210V was causing the boosted voltage to very slightly exceed the spec (242V vs an allowable range of 220 to 240), so I thought that might be related to the digital over-current alarms (nope, unrelated). And there was the 35 amp breaker that kept tripping at only 28 amps of current -- to fix that $14 problem, the prior owner was told he'd have to upgrade the entire house from 200 amps to 400 amp service. Coincidentally, I have a few thousand dollars of new, never-been-used breaker boxes and 000 gauge copper wire in my basement for anyone who wants to pick it up.
Thanks for listening, this has been therapeutic.
And when you are thinking about installing thermal batteries into millions of homes, just imagine a bunch of idiots running around with expensive tools they don't understand, unable to figure out whether a pipe has water in it or not. It's the dumbest little things that make this stuff expensive.