California is considering a law that would require warning labels on gas stoves.
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In the US and Canada all electric stoves, dryers and hot water heating are on 220 so there is usually 220 coming into the home but some don't have more than 75 amp service which would need to be upgraded.My house is tiny, even by UK standards. Last year I had my gas supply cut off, and now only use electricity. Replacing my gas central heating and water heating was tricky, requiring several different ideas. Lots of cable had to be run inside walls and in the loft, but running a fat cable to the stove to run an induction hob was a step too far. It would have to cross the bathroom, and there’s no easy route, so would have had to be in visible trunking.
What I did instead was buy a cheap induction hob, rated to just 3.2kW*, only allowing two of the four burners to be run at a time, keeping it within the rating of the existing cable, which feeds a double socket powering my electric oven and the sparkers for my old gas hob. Being limited to 3kW is absolutely fine, as I never need more than two burners, and if I wanted to run a big cable I could shift a jumper and unlock all four burners at 6.4kW. I previously mentioned my house was tiny, as is the kitchen, with no appreciable worktop. That’s why it looks untidy, and I’ll never use the other burners!
*in the UK, all circuits are ~240V, it might be more complicated in the US.
"A few hundred more"? Hey, an induction‑ready Ikea pot costs under $10. And you might be surprised that your old fancy pots might be already compatible. My nearly 15‑year old fancy set certainly was. Even the 60‑year old enamel pot first used by my grandma is...Then a few hundred more for compatible cookware.
Interesting. I have actually never lived in a place that doesn't have an exhaust vent above the stove ... paired with a handy range-top light. From the house I grew up in back in the 70s-80s through to my current house that was built in 1953. From VA to DC to PA to FL to NV to CA to ID. Coast to coast and border to border. Hell, I've even stayed in a weekly hotel that had them in the kitchenettes.I have lived in 5 places with gas stoves and absolutely none of them had exterior venting hoods in the design, one was added at one location, but very poorly (and I do mean fire hazard poorly). Only one of those buildings was built prior to 1990.
As ever, it depends! I have only 80A service, and that’s plenty for my 3kW induction cooktop, 2.4kW total IR heaters, 10.8kW shower, 3.6kW battery inverter, 7.2kW EV charger, and all the other smaller loads. They’re not all used at the same time - the highest draw I’ve ever seen is 15kW, which is about 60A, and then only for a few minutes, when my car was charging while I was showering and the oven was on. The EVSE is set to throttle itself if the total draw goes over 60A. At night, there’s a continuous 10.8kW - about 40A - draw for a few hours while my battery and car are charging. During the day, it’s almost always much less, not least because 3.6kW comes from my battery.In the US and Canada all electric stoves, dryers and hot water heating are on 220 so there is usually 220 coming into the home but some don't have more than 75 amp service which would need to be upgraded.
Also particulate matter can be very fine (less than 2.5 microns) and therefore may be in relatively high concentration with no visual confirmation. Those particulates will bury themselves deep in your lungs or even diffuse into the bloodstream.Seems like a good idea. My parents have a nice hood above their burners but almost never use it even when cooking on multiple burners because "the house doesn't get smoky from cooking". A warning label pointing out that burning gas is really bad to breathe even if you can't see it would probably encourage people to use their ranges more safely.
However, complete combustion is almost impossible to achieve, since the chemical equilibrium is not necessarily reached, or may contain unburnt products such as carbon monoxide, hydrogen and even carbon (soot or ash). Thus, the produced smoke is usually toxic and contains unburned or partially oxidized products. Any combustion at high temperatures in atmospheric air, which is 78 percent nitrogen, will also create small amounts of several nitrogen oxides, commonly referred to as NOx, since the combustion of nitrogen is thermodynamically favored at high, but not low temperatures.
What a great idea!Hmm maybe some sort of asbestos mat instead?![]()
There are now some better IGBT drivers that promise continuous low power even down to 10 W, slowly making their way even into single‑zone portable stoves. And although that's via some clever modulation, it's likely the draw still peaks at 100 W at most.Yeah and this is a pain in the ass to figure out. I've been looking for one to run off battery in remote locations (long story) and there's no way to tell if the model will peak at 2000W even if you set it to 800 or whatever, which would impact the specs needed for the battery and inverter etc.
And if they only took themselves out, it’d be fine. But they insist on taking out everyone else too, by making stupid laws.shhh like covid this is a gop killer
let them do all the stuff that they want that takes more of themselves out, by there own stupid choices
Interesting. I have actually never lived in a place that doesn't have an exhaust vent above the stove ... paired with a handy range-top light. From the house I grew up in back in the 70s-80s through to my current house that was built in 1953. From VA to DC to PA to FL to NV to CA to ID. Coast to coast and border to border. Hell, I've even stayed in a weekly hotel that had them in the kitchenettes.
Some places had gas stoves. Some had electric. Every single one had an exhaust vent over the stove.
By, uhm, requiring buildings to contain gas lines? I thought I made that clear. I'm neither regurgitating nor Republican, thank you very much. Regulations that support the gas industry don't help keep indoor air clean, nor do they reduce greenhouse gas emissions. Not all regulations are created equal, and far too many support narrow interest groups.How? You literally didn't say. You're just regurgitating thoughtless republican drivel about how "federal government bad."
OK, I give up[...] But beyond cost, to me a stove that doesn't actually get hot is stupid. I use my stove for all sorts of arbitrary heating tasks - could be an Erlenmeyer flask with a dye solution, could be a tortilla. With an induction stove, you'll just be standing there with a dumb look on your face.
Induction ranges start at around $1000 (direct replacement for normal drop in electric range/oven combos.)Do you know how many emitters per “burner” there are? I tried a single-burner portable induction cooktop from a reputable company (not a cheap Amazon special) and it absolutely failed to work with my cast iron skillets. My warranty claim was denied as I was told the burner only had three magnetic emitters, and it was expected to only create three hot spots in my skillet.
Ended up being useless for making quesadillas because the cooktop would make three parts of the skillet so hot it burned the tortilla, the rest would be raw, and then the unit went into a thermal overload safety shutdown for a few minutes.
My frustration ended up being mostly that it was impossible to tell if the unit was defective or not, as it was all software controlled with no way to understand why my cooking was being ruined until multiple conversations with customer service convinced me the unit was only acceptable for boiling water.
I’d like it try an induction cooktop, but I’m not going to drop $6000 on something with no promises it will work or not, and no showrooms have them actually connected to test.
Not sure why you're looking at ground source heat pumps for such a tiny home. 400 sq feet can be satisfied by even a portable 12000btu (around 1.2 kw) heat pump/window unit/minisplit... If you're going for a minisplit, you can mount the condensor on your outside wall... it's common here in the US at least.I looked into a heat pump, but I don’t believe they’re quiet enough. In a back to back mid terrace house, I only have one external wall, and refuse to put a noisy fan near my bedroom window. The ground outside doesn’t belong to me, though I was able to get permission for a cable for my EV charger, but the extra tanks and such required for a ground source heat pump simply wouldn’t fit. 40m2 is about 400sqft - like I said, my house is tiny.
In the UK, gas is about a quarter the price of electricity, so a heat pump with a COP of 4 would break even. It may work out cheaper if piping and radiators need replacing, if only because the new ones are cleaner. I fitted an electric shower, inline electric heater for the bathroom tap, and a Quooker hybrid tap which does both boiling and warm water, so I no longer need a kettle. My plumber disconnected the hot loop, and sometime later this year he’ll remove the old boiler, which is just taking up space in a cupboard.
I have lots of insulation though, so don’t need too much heat, and my far IR panels use less than expected, due to heating solid objects (including me) but not the air. They also allow for microzoning, so I only need to heat the room I’m using. May not be so good if I didn’t live alone.
Doesn't apply in your case, but a lot of AC and heat pump units are noisy due to structure borne noise. It's common in some places to mount them on a couple pipes sticking out of an exterior wall. Which means the wall vibrates and is noisy. Terrible if its your family room. Moving the AC to a standalone concrete pad with risers made the whole thing near silent indoors, at least if the windows are closed. Sadly, many AC are noise polluters outside. Fan noise mostly scales with fan speed, and end users have no control over that.I looked into a heat pump, but I don’t believe they’re quiet enough. In a back to back mid terrace house, I
New induction stoves are coming out that contain a battery themselves. They have 4 cooking elements and still run on 110v. (Most 4 element induction stoves need 220v for the short term high draw).I think about it too. One big problem at least in my country it will put heavy load at power line and our power plant.
One immediate solution albeit higher cost are put battery (5-10 kwh) at house for buffer and make it better with control unit that can recieve solar cell.
With this buffer, everyone happy including power plant operator
You should tell that to all the homes built with 120V under where the range/cooktop goes....I think you have a very off sense of how much energy an induction stove uses. It is less than a typical electric stove.
Switching to an electric shouldn't even require an electrical panel upgrade for the majority of homes. I have serious doubts it would somehow stress the power grid if we all moved to electric/induction over the course of many years. I mean new homes are built all the time and new power lines are run to them.
I guess if you do mostly wok cooking[...]
My understanding is that CO forms when there's not enough oxygen at the flame. This can happen easily in an internal combustion engine, for example. But with a gas stove, it's an open flame, so I would think it would get all the oxygen it could use. So why is CO formed, rather than just CO2?
For the price of one of those (starts at $6000 from both inpulse and canary), I'd rather just get the electrical work done and buy a standard $1000 induction range not be roped into buying a expensive battery (cheapest 3 kwh battery is what, like at least $800?, before adding in the manufacturer tax cause you know none of them are selling you the battery at cost)/replacement range down the road.New induction stoves are coming out that contain a battery themselves. They have 4 cooking elements and still run on 110v. (Most 4 element induction stoves need 220v for the short term high draw).
This eliminates a big part of conversion which was running a 220v line to the kitchen.
A bonus part of these new stoves is they could (again wiring changes) also run your fridge during a power outage.
Unfortunately California has already trained people to completely ignore their safety warnings.
I looked at air source first, and discounted it due to the noise. Some claim to be silent, but anything with moving parts left outside all the time won’t be silent forever.Induction ranges start at around $1000 (direct replacement for normal drop in electric range/oven combos.)
About $500 more expensive than the cheapest resistance ranges or gas ranges., but only about $100-300 more expensive than similar ranges with similar features...
Not sure why you're looking at ground source heat pumps for such a tiny home. 400 sq feet can be satisfied by even a portable 12000btu (around 1.2 kw) heat pump/window unit/minisplit... If you're going for a minisplit, you can mount the condensor on your outside wall... it's common here in the US at least.
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If you're so sensitive to noise, a furnace would have the same issue as any heat source... I got the standard sounds from the vents from my gas furnace. You're probably looking at a in ground resistive or water based heating then...
6000 quid for an induction hob? Seriously? In England that would be a pisstake. (Only the "posh" would even think about that sort of money for a cooker!!!!)I was an “electric neverer” until I was introduced to a $6000 Thermador Freedom induction cooktop. Mind you, I did not buy that.
But for not a lot of money zoneless or sorta zoneless induction cooktops exist and induction is just magical.
All this noise about “when I flip my flapjacks there is no heat” is just that, noise. No reason to cook like it is 1890.
I will point out to the open source aficionados, the Freedom runs Linux.
Exactly. Carbon steel and cast iron are born induction-ready. Almost all, if not all, cladded stainless (e.g. All-Clad, Made In) is. And if a pan has a thick base, it's probably induction capable."A few hundred more"? Hey, an induction‑ready Ikea pot costs under $10. And you might be surprised that your old fancy pots might be already compatible. My nearly 15‑year old fancy set certainly was. Even the 60‑year old enamel pot first used by my grandma is...
Ok. So buy the $40 one that still has like zillion 4-5 star reviews on Amazon. But you do get what you pay for.6000 quid for an induction hob? Seriously? In England that would be a pisstake. (Only the "posh" would even think about that sort of money for a cooker!!!!)
And why does an induction cooker need an operating system? Either open source or propriety. Just why?
Natural gas doesn’t smell. It’s odorless. The smell is added to provide artificial leak detection ie. I can smell a leak.Gas imo, sucks more. The amount of waste heat is embarrassing. I hated cooking for long periods on a gas stove in a southern climate with crappy AC. And mind you I do like the smell of burning natural gas, probably incomplete combustion, I grew up with it on mornings with perfectly crispy bacon and pancakes.
Gas stoves, at best (so a high cfm hood) are indoor BBQs that give you some convenience. I guess if you do mostly wok cooking the market still makes it pricey or inconvenient for an electric option, but a lot of cooking on stovetop is affected more by the vessel than the heat source and your skill with that vessel. Iron is the great equalizer imo, but acids aren't great for it (hot acid isn't great for lots of stuff) so steel is my backup.
Sorry running long here, but essentially if you have experience with cooking beyond an occasional fry up, I am vexxed by stating induction is bad. Like, I guess compared to a regular glass electric top you're limited in materials (no standard copper or aluminum pans) but otherwise it's quicker and more responsive than anything else I've used.
Wow, a resitive stove stan, never though I'd ran into one of those!ROTFLMAO. Yeah. You cook your meals in that pot ... exclusively(?) ... and tell me how that goes for you. I can only assume you are either joking or that you don't actually enjoy cooking. Quality cookware isn't cheap.
This may surprise you, but what is compatible on induction stoves (and what isn't) is not a mystery. We know exactly how they work. As such, I know exactly what compatible cookware I have and what would need to be replaced. And replacement ain't happening for $10 at Ikea.
But beyond cost, to me a stove that doesn't actually get hot is stupid. I use my stove for all sorts of arbitrary heating tasks - could be an Erlenmeyer flask with a dye solution, could be a tortilla. With an induction stove, you'll just be standing there with a dumb look on your face.
You guys are all working with a false dichotomy; pretending like the only alternative to inductive stoves is gas. I haven't had a gas stove for over two decades.
I'll stick with radiant heat, thanks.
That would be breakfast bell then, unless of course you are one of thoseWhen I make toast, it often is!
If you have fancy tastes, you get to pay for your fancy tastes, sure.Then a few hundred more for compatible cookware.
Are you trying to make us cheer the reaper?Have a 700 CFM external exhaust fan over our 5 burner pro stove.
And constant air flow throughout the house.
And we’re both terminally ill, so I actually don’t give two shits.
For me, in southeast Michigan (DTE), using a heat pump would double my heating cost. That's with the winter night time rates (the cheapest, and probably the most relevant), and assuming a 300% efficient heat pump.If they got a heat pump or electric tankless hot water heater (or even a hybrid hot water heater), it's cheaper than using gas even here in the US for the most part....
Yes you are right. You go and buy your 40 quid thing from Amazon. And will be as good as what you have expected from your 40 quid purchase. Hey, and you will get the opportunity to give it a 4 or 5 star review!!!Ok. So buy the $40 one that still has like zillion 4-5 star reviews on Amazon. But you do get what you pay for.