I've driven tens of thousands of miles with a RWD drive BMW and good winter tires. Never had issue.Okay, not really relevant to the car being reviewed, but:
Can we just not? I DO live on a hill (~400'/122m) somewhere that DOES get a lot of winters, and I'm just fine with my RWD car on winter tires. Hell, both daughters have happily driven up/down the hill in a FWD Mini with all-seasons, occasionally laughing at spun-out AWD/4WD vehicles as they go.
(Edit: To clarify my point, I'm referring to most of the AWD cars out there that would do just as well with 2WD and a decent set of winter tires as they don't have the ground clearance to handle situations where you objectively probably need 4WD/AWD.)
More relevantly, as someone who's owned a ton of BMWs over the years and hasn't been a fan of all of their design decisions, I think they finally lost me when they moved to the new-design kidneys. It sort-of works on the SAVs but just looks too "basking shark chic" on a coupe/sedan.
Nice thing is that all seasons have gotten really good. I've been watching the Tyre Reviews channel and they do subjective and objective tests. The best all seasons like Michelins Crossclimate 2 are now almost as good as their reference winter tire. This includes stuff like traction, braking, and handling on both snow and ice.Summer tires and AWD are just dangerous so you have to run at least all season anyway, or go really slow. Even on dry pavement summer tires have significantly reduced grip at low temperatures.
If they are stock, they are either all season or grand touring all season with compounds for better mileage and they are very skinny relative to most tires so you are dealing with all seasons.It isn't like the Prius is designed to scrunch passengers next to the door on every turn. The stock tires actually work just fine when you are driving like a normal person and I rather trust the Toyota engineers a bit more than random internet posters. I've driven the thing in Colorado mountain winters for 4 years now. No problemo.
Yes, I was specifically calling out summer tires, not all seasons as the poster was commenting people don't want to deal with winter tires or all season tires.Nice thing is that all seasons have gotten really good. I've been watching the Tyre Reviews channel and they do subjective and objective tests. The best all seasons like Michelins Crossclimate 2 are now almost as good as their reference winter tire. This includes stuff like traction, braking, and handling on both snow and ice.
It should be notes that all season tires are not the same thing as all weather tires (which carry the 3 mountain peak symbol). The Michelin Crossclimate 2 tires (which I have on my Subaru, and which are awesome!) are all weather tires. If you want good snow performance and don't want to have to put on/take off winter tires every year, skip the all season tires and go with a good set of all weather tires.Nice thing is that all seasons have gotten really good. I've been watching the Tyre Reviews channel and they do subjective and objective tests. The best all seasons like Michelins Crossclimate 2 are now almost as good as their reference winter tire. This includes stuff like traction, braking, and handling on both snow and ice.
The winter has been relatively mild as a result of climate change,
Just caught this -Summer tires and AWD are just dangerous so you have to run at least all season anyway, or go really slow. Even on dry pavement summer tires have significantly reduced grip at low temperatures.
Unfortunately it's a car designed to take either an ICE or a battery drivetrain. So it keeps many features from the ICE like the lack of a frunk.Now that we don't need the grills to be so large for airflow...can we stop with this?
Sigh. Would like to see an understanding for why it is more than 1100 pounds more than the comparable 440i. Is the battery really 1200+ pounds? I would think the removal of the B58 (300 pounds on its own) and other ICE-specific components would save something meaningful but perhaps not?The throttle response is instantaneous, and the brakes aren't grabby. It's quiet and smooth and rides well over bumps and potholes—a consequence of having to damp a 5,000 lb (2,200 kg) curb weight.
At least it's not "induction cooktop chic."More relevantly, as someone who's owned a ton of BMWs over the years and hasn't been a fan of all of their design decisions, I think they finally lost me when they moved to the new-design kidneys. It sort-of works on the SAVs but just looks too "basking shark chic" on a coupe/sedan.
5,000 lb curb weight, ~260 miles range out of >80kwh usable, 205kw max charging, 5.1s to 62mph.
Those are not really class leading stats for an EV in 2025; weight and acceleration in particular are pretty bad for a BMW.
Would love for somebody that actually understands the trade-offs of these 'combined designs' to weigh in on how much that is a factor in the not-so-great stats.
All of these comments are insanity. Number of driven wheels, tire selection, car weight, driving care etc all play a factor. None of them are more important than others. AWD is pointless until you're in a ditch. All cars have All Wheel Brakes. All tires are equally terrible if you drive like a moron. If you think any of those factors will make you invincible, please visit your nearest ski resort on a snowstorm day, you'll find all the ditched subarus with their winter tires because they think they can drive like morons because they have AWD and good winter tires.Summer tires and AWD are just dangerous so you have to run at least all season anyway, or go really slow. Even on dry pavement summer tires have significantly reduced grip at low temperatures.
Funny how tastes differ. I hate portrait screens in cars with a passion. Especially ones that look like someone just glued a tablet to the console. The i4 screen is beautiful in comparison, plenty bright even in direct sunlight, and the software is top notch. You can set up the HUD, "instrument panel" and main screen to display all sorts of combinations of information, and control most things on the main screen via either touch or the dial.If you're going to force me to have a stupid dash screen you could at least put it in Portrait orientation instead of landscape or, worse, ultrawide landscape.
Btw you can also set climate controls via voice commands. I rarely do as I usually just set the AC to auto on the lowest setting to keep the fan noise to a minimum, but it's one of the few things besides making phone calls that I think make sense having voice recognition for.Just wanted to give an extra thanks for the different wheel size and EPA range/estimate! Giant wheels (19" +) from the factory seems to be the norm, but I like the single motor with 18" wheels range better.
Unfortunate that they've decided on touchscreen climate controls. (Curious to know how long they last compared to physical switches?!)
Like any car, if you have a good mechanic you trust, BMWs are fine to own. Reliability for them has come a long way, and as long as you weren’t taking them to the dealer for service, the older ones weren’t that expensive to maintain, either.With warranty, sure. Outside that, unless you are comfortable wrenching on it yourself, I would never recommend someone buys a European lux vehicle out of warranty. Specifically, the i4 has air suspension in the rear. A VERY costly fix.
Define "better".BEVs are better than combustion
Hard disagree. BEVs are necessary, but they are not better outside of a few metrics.
For me, just bought another car due to a set of issues that pushed it as the right decision now, and it was gas. A couple of years from now with standardized NACS, it would have been a BEV.Agreed it would be more practical and look better, but we seem to be the minority there, and it would also likely be a significant drag on range - it would be nice to have the option, though.
For how well the electric i4s have been reviewed, I was a little surprised at used prices - 1-year-old examples with fewer than 10,000 miles are going for $20k under new MSRP around here. Which makes me hopeful when it's time to replace my current car in a couple years, but also wondering if they've had significant reliability issues.
According to Electric on the i4talk forums it actually is. "Battery: The whole unit weights 550 kg. 1212,5 lbs".Sigh. Would like to see an understanding for why it is more than 1100 pounds more than the comparable 440i. Is the battery really 1200+ pounds? I would think the removal of the B58 (300 pounds on its own) and other ICE-specific components would save something meaningful but perhaps not?
lol, no, I’m not overreacting, and yes, you sure were saying exactly that. You popped off with an opinion with zero nuance and a shitload of generalizing, you were expecting a bunch of pats on the back and yeah buddy, glad to disappoint, stop being a fuckin’ know it all.Wow, overreact much? I wasn't saying AWD/4WD was useless or unnecessary (we have one of each),
Bro, just about all infotainment screens, regardless of orientation, look like they were hot glued to the dash. There's two reasons I prefer portrait over landscape. 1) It's better for maps, because I want to see further in front of me on the map. Landscape is better at showing more of what's to the left and right, which I don't give a shit about. I've tried both orientations, portrait is better. 2) It's easier to package the screen lower in the dash without blocking air vents. This also helps to make the screen look more integrated into the system instead of looking like some hot-glue action.Funny how tastes differ. I hate portrait screens in cars with a passion. Especially ones that look like someone just glued a tablet to the console. The i4 screen is beautiful in comparison, plenty bright even in direct sunlight, and the software is top notch. You can set up the HUD, "instrument panel" and main screen to display all sorts of combinations of information, and control most things on the main screen via either touch or the dial.
Depends on what goes bad. Pulling a cylinder head is going to cost a small fortune, and apparently machine shops for valve jobs are few and far between. $8k for a new one. The quote for repairing my 535 was 12-18k, with a used engine, no warranty. Engine cost alone was about 6-7k for a like mileage one. New engine was worth more than the car. I managed to address the immediate problem and traded it in, rather than address the core issue causing the misdiagnosed failure I experienced: compression failure in a cylinder, debris in a couple of cylinders - thought initially a piston had disintegrated - this actually is a potential failure mode in the N55 engine as the stock pistons are cast. Instead massive carbon buildup on a single valve that broke free and was burnt onto the valve during multiple misfires. Note - good bore scope is worth its weight in gold.Like any car, if you have a good mechanic you trust, BMWs are fine to own. Reliability for them has come a long way, and as long as you weren’t taking them to the dealer for service, the older ones weren’t that expensive to maintain, either.
So how well would the low ground clearance i4 function in your locations with 4wd? Yeah, thought so.That's nice. You live on a small hill at low elevation. I live in Colorado, and regularly drive at altitudes around 6200-10,000ft, where an average winter can bring not only ice but also deep snow, extended driving on steep grades, and extremely rapid shifts in conditions and temperatures. It can also, as is currently the case, bring 65-70F temperatures that result in dedicated winter tires crumbling like pencil erasers. In the conditions I am used to in my particular situation, an AWD car with 3-Peak rated all season tires is often a more capable and appropriate vehicle than anything with dedicated winter tires and 2WD. And that's how I've equipped my primary vehicle.
So, my friend, can you just not? By all means do what makes sense for you in your context, but do recognize that your circumstances are not universal, and maybe stop being a goddamn know-it-all.
jesus christ but you're dumb. and generalizing? ffs all you've DONE is generalize about what i wrote. whatever.lol, no, I’m not overreacting, and yes, you sure were saying exactly that. You popped off with an opinion with zero nuance and a shitload of generalizing, you were expecting a bunch of pats on the back and yeah buddy, glad to disappoint, stop being a fuckin’ know it all.
BMW has been so ugly for so long it makes one wonder what Chris Bangle is doing these days.I would absolutely buy the i4 if they fix that hideous front end. Been staring at it since 2022 trying to convince myself that it looks ok but still really ugly.
Let me know when you’ve got the whining out of your system.jesus christ but you're dumb. and generalizing? ffs all you've DONE is generalize about what i wrote. whatever.
Wrong.an AWD car with 3-Peak rated all season tires is often a more capable and appropriate vehicle than anything with dedicated winter tires and 2WD.
People would usually just say "i4". The rest denotes the type of drivetrain, where the "xDrive" denotes BMW all wheel drive (it is a smart , computer-controlled wheel distributor of the torque across all wheels), and the remaining numbers are the engine/power of the vehicle. It is there to describe the full model, but in the end no one uses it. So it is barely a problem when you own one of this vehicles. Many people would also just say "white BMW" or so.This doesn't contribute much but I really wish someone would take away BMW's keyboards in the Car Naming Department. "i4 xDrive40?" Has anyone even tried to say this out loud, much less describe it to someone else with a straight face? This is far from the most egregious offense, too.
How about i40x? 440xi? Perfect, no, but they don't look like a robot having a stroke at a spelling bee, either.
No snark, I would appreciate if you could expand upon this assertion.As someone who has driven a lot of EVs I can honestly say BMW makes the best ones, imo.
I'd never heard about a failure like a serpentine belt getting, literally, sucked into an engine before. I can't imagine the work that goes into fixing that, if it's even possible. It would seem like just a whole new engine would be needed...Depends on what goes bad. Pulling a cylinder head is going to cost a small fortune, and apparently machine shops for valve jobs are few and far between. $8k for a new one. The quote for repairing my 535 was 12-18k, with a used engine, no warranty. Engine cost alone was about 6-7k for a like mileage one. New engine was worth more than the car. I managed to address the immediate problem and traded it in, rather than address the core issue causing the misdiagnosed failure I experienced: compression failure in a cylinder, debris in a couple of cylinders - thought initially a piston had disintegrated - this actually is a potential failure mode in the N55 engine as the stock pistons are cast. Instead massive carbon buildup on a single valve that broke free and was burnt onto the valve during multiple misfires. Note - good bore scope is worth its weight in gold.
That doesn't include all the other little parts that need replacing on a 100k mile car at that point, if you're going that far anyways.
So - if nothing major goes wrong (see about serpentine belts getting sucked into the engine for nightmares) it's not too bad. But "cheap" and "BMW" after 100k don't fit on the same page. They're not like Toyotas that make 150-200k before needing that type of attention normally. (v8 4Runners being an exception with the emissions exhaust valve failures at 100-120k, with a repair cost north of $3k, or a twisty wire IIRC)