It's something I'd expect from cheap no name brand stuff, but would hope a major company would have short circuit protection.For everyone else, let this be a reminder to keep your Steam Controller puck away from any metallic or magnetically sensitive objects.
I dont understand how this is the advice and not a mass recall and a redesign to avoid this. How many houses will have to burn down or people die before this is addressed?
I see you've spared no expense.
Scrolled back and read that. Agree that it looks like Valve did the right thing and something else is going on here.
Our modern understanding is that putting the ground up (ie. "upside down" from how it was traditionally intended) is the safer way, because if something were to fall on a partially disconnected plug, it would touch the ground rather than the live blades.Oh, now I'm triggered. My house has upside-down outlets to indicate half the outlet is controlled by a wall switch. I freaking hate these outlets because I use flat-plug power strips (where the wire is supposed to go straight down flat against the wall), but on those outlets the wire goes straight up putting tons of strain on the plug.
Yeah, I changed my name. Been meaning to do it for a while, just picked today for w/e reason.I've looked through this thread several times and ctrl-F'd for coonwhiz, I'm not seeing this comment/link that is being referred to.
Edit: Is this referring to @Quasarsaurus comment? Was there a name change?
I think the better fix, in the long run, is to adopt a European standard and run protective shielding halfway down the electrical contacts. This would prevent any dangerous risk of an errant tool or finger brushing against the hot lead or shorting across two. Since the previous standard allowed the "grip" of the plug to be at an arbitrary point along the internal wall though, applying that shielding would make it incompatible with any plug who's contact grips are closer to the front. There'd be some "growing pains" I suspect, but it's the only way to fully protect. I suppose having the ground up makes it less likely to contact live, but it'll still happen. "Less likely" is still an improvement, true, but yes, in practice most devices we're plugging in kind of "expect" the typical "face shaped" orientation, and that includes my old "wall wart" AC/DC adapters. Hang a few of THOSE upside down and it'll cause even more risk with the weight tugging it right out of alignment.Our modern understanding is that putting the ground up (ie. "upside down" from how it was traditionally intended) is the safer way, because if something were to fall on a partially disconnected plug, it would touch the ground rather than the live blades.
It's really those flat-plugs that are wrongly designed, and deserve the hate.
They’re quite rare these days but some houses here have different sockets for lights that are controlled that way. They’re like miniature Type Gs with round pins.Oh, now I'm triggered. My house has upside-down outlets to indicate half the outlet is controlled by a wall switch. I freaking hate these outlets because I use flat-plug power strips (where the wire is supposed to go straight down flat against the wall), but on those outlets the wire goes straight up putting tons of strain on the plug.
Devices without a ground connection (or a bad one) can sometimes leak a very small amount of current. This is noticeable if they have a metal case; you’ll feel a tingle if you brush your hand against them.What ground loop? The Pixel charger uses inductive charging.
The Pixel 3 watch, which the original user reported to be using does not use inductive charging. Here's the charger, there's 4 metal pins.What ground loop? The Pixel charger uses inductive charging.
They aren't because earth pin is longer and automatically connects first and breaks last. Hospitals, businesses, etc using North American NEMA connectors sometimes have the sockets "upside down". No the electrical code doesn't specify the orientation, despite common belief.By the by, I’ve often wondered why American sockets aren’t installed upside down. Having the earth pin at the top would stop the rare instances of something conductive falling onto a half-inserted plug and shorting live and neutral.
The upside down thing is a suggestion and isnt part of the code. I do wish less strain would be placed on the conducting wires tbh.Oh, now I'm triggered. My house has upside-down outlets to indicate half the outlet is controlled by a wall switch. I freaking hate these outlets because I use flat-plug power strips (where the wire is supposed to go straight down flat against the wall), but on those outlets the wire goes straight up putting tons of strain on the plug.
We have 90 degree plugs too, in fact we have the choice (or at least manufacturers do). An appliance like say a vacuum cleaner has no need of a 90 degree plug since that would actually risk more strain on the cord if pulled while vacuuming.T
They’re quite rare these days but some houses here have different sockets for lights that are controlled that way. They’re like miniature Type Gs with round pins.
All our plugs have the wire coming out at the bottom. It means you can have something plugged in behind e.g. a book case without needing to have a gap between the furniture and the wall.
Devices without a ground connection (or a bad one) can sometimes leak a very small amount of current. This is noticeable if they have a metal case; you’ll feel a tingle if you brush your hand against them.
This also means there will be a voltage between the case and ground. This can be a huge problem for audio equipment as it interferes with the audio signal. It’s not dangerous per se, but it’s not inconceivable that there might be some arcing if, say, there’s a round pin with a very small point of contact. This article explains it better.
I would love to see electrical code updated to include smarter breakers, though of course then people will complain about having to go to the panel to reset vs a gfci outlet chainThey aren't because earth pin is longer and automatically connects first and breaks last. Hospitals, businesses, etc using North American NEMA connectors sometimes have the sockets "upside down". No the electrical code doesn't specify the orientation, despite common belief.
The earth pin won't save you in a way that a real GFCI/ residual-current circuit breaker (RCCB) will.
You may want a arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI)/ arc-fault detection device (AFDD) instead or in a combo with a GFCI/RCCB
The upside down thing is a suggestion and isnt part of the code. I do wish less strain would be placed on the conducting wires tbh.
I'm already going to a panel as it is. It seems to me using the breaker right at the outlet that done did it would be more convenient and I'd welcome it.I would love to see electrical code updated to include smarter breakers, though of course then people will complain about having to go to the panel to reset vs a gfci outlet chain
There really isn't any concept of upside-down in the electrical code. Receptacles can go in whatever orientation is desired. They're often horizontal when installed above countertops, and there's no concept of "up" when installed on the floor or ceiling. If you wanted to be, um, "bold" and "creative" then you could install receptacles in your house diagonally.By the by, I’ve often wondered why American sockets aren’t installed upside down.
I wouldn't dismiss it as something that never happens. It's happened to me while using a tape measure that slid down the wall and shorted the hot and neutral prongs together. Fortunately, metal tape resulted in enough current to trip the circuit breaker almost instantly. I ended up replacing that receptacle because it had a bit of flash charring, and I was sure to put the replacement ground up.Because that failure mode basically never happens. If the pins are exposed enough for that to matter then the plug has basically fallen out of the outlet at that point.
Yes, sorry. My mistake.I've looked through this thread several times and ctrl-F'd for coonwhiz, I'm not seeing this comment/link that is being referred to.
Edit: Is this referring to @Quasarsaurus comment? Was there a name change?
In theory this shouldn’t be much different than Apple’s longtime laptop MagSafe charging connector. Can anyone chime in on whether that’s less of a fire risk, and if so, how?
You can solve that by not putting electrical outlets in bathrooms. The only ones we have are for shavers and electric toothbrushes. They’re limited to 110V, have an internal fuse, a different plug and they’re galvanically isolated so there’s no risk of electric shock unless you actually set out to electrocute yourself.Something simply MUST be done about the "hair dryer problem" though. Those things blow and half the house goes out. Maybe setting that on it's own isolate circuit so if it goes out, THAT outlet is the only one that trips is the best bet.
Short answer: if it’s the pad type of charger you can’t use the device while it’s charging. If it’s the kind that attaches with a magnet there’s usually no pressing reason to make it wireless in the first place.Is there a good reason you couldn't use inductive charging like on most phones and many watches?
It's not just that - it's that AFCI/GFCI combo breakers breakers are very expensive ($70ea, as opposed to basic 20A thermal breakers going for $7) and also have issues with nuisance tripping, especially when using anything with brushed motors. Older vacuum cleaners are especially are terrible with these.I would love to see electrical code updated to include smarter breakers, though of course then people will complain about having to go to the panel to reset vs a gfci outlet chain
I still haven't figured out how a lot of hair dryers can legally be sold. I see some that are labeled at 1875 watts, which is more than 15 amps at 120V. How can such a device be sold with a 150-amp plug instead of the 20-amp plug?Something simply MUST be done about the "hair dryer problem" though.
Try 230V@13A. I might be smug if I had enough hair to need a hairdryer.I still haven't figured out how a lot of hair dryers can legally be sold. I see some that are labeled at 1875 watts, which is more than 15 amps at 120V.
The US is all on 120V, and outlets in bathrooms have been required to have GFCI outlets for at least 30 years now, AND every hair dryer in the US must have a GFI circuit in the plug as well (which I don't like - they are big, bulky things). It's practically impossible to electrocute yourself with a hair dryer in the US.You can solve that by not putting electrical outlets in bathrooms. The only ones we have are for shavers and electric toothbrushes. They’re limited to 110V, have an internal fuse, a different plug and they’re galvanically isolated so there’s no risk of electric shock unless you actually set out to electrocute yourself.
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Because the North American household voltage is 120 volts ± 6%, and marketing went with using 125 volts in the wattage calculation. So, it might be true... someplace. Just as long as it doesn't draw more than 15 amps.I still haven't figured out how a lot of hair dryers can legally be sold. I see some that are labeled at 1875 watts, which is more than 15 amps at 120V. How can such a device be sold with a 150-amp plug instead of the 20-amp plug?
Although actual voltage is nominally ~120V, outlets (and the NEMA code) are rated for 125V, I think to account for possible regional or temporary voltage variations. 125V x 15A = 1875W.I still haven't figured out how a lot of hair dryers can legally be sold. I see some that are labeled at 1875 watts, which is more than 15 amps at 120V. How can such a device be sold with a 150-amp plug instead of the 20-amp plug?
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I always assumed these types of things had some sort of smart logic that only sent any measurable power through after confirming it was properly seated. What happens if I put a lightning cable in my mouth? Does it send 15w to me or confirm Im an iphone?
The inductive coil adds a little bit of thickness and weight, and they tend to get very warm when charging. There are advantages and disadvantages to both approaches.Is there a good reason you couldn't use inductive charging like on most phones and many watches? I'm not an EE and I know it'd be less efficient, but with Qi2 charging at up to 25W it doesn't seem like it would be a problem with time to charge. Is it more a matter of the space needed? Even the Apple Watch can charge at up to 20W from what I read.
I'm not trying to troll here; I am genuinely curious as it seems the inductive charging would avoid the shorting issue altogether.
Kevin
I am pretty sure a Lightning cable or the power source confirms that it is plugged into a device before blasting 15+W down the cable.I always assumed these types of things had some sort of smart logic that only sent any measurable power through after confirming it was properly seated. What happens if I put a lightning cable in my mouth? Does it send 15w to me or confirm Im an iphone?
I can’t answer a PD handshake, but I can whistle a 300 baud modem answer tone, if that’s any help.I assume you are not capable of answering the USB PD handshake, so the voltage will not be increased.
Maybe that'll get you the 48V used on the old telecom network?I can’t answer a PD handshake, but I can whistle a 300 baud modem answer tone, if that’s any help.
(God knows why my friends and I spent so much time practicing that useless skill).
So if you put a Lightning or USB cable into your mouth and it's plugged in to a modern charger, it'll probably try to apply 5V/0.5A to your mouth (i.e. 2.5W). This will fail, as 5V won't overcome your electrical resistance. I assume you are not capable of answering the USB PD handshake, so the voltage will not be increased.
The charging/data (for kb input) pogo pins on ipad keyboard cases though arent, without this problem.The metal pins in the MagSafe charger are recessed, so they present less of a short circuit hazard.
This is likely the answerI'd also speculate that the Apple device has short protection circuitry that the Steam device clearly lacks.