The BMW i4 eDrive40 might be the best electric sedan on sale today

fargofallout

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We bought a Model 3 a few years ago and are having real regrets. We've been considering this car as a replacement, so I'm glad to hear it's good. My only concern is it being rear wheel drive when we live in Minnesota - I had a Mustang back in college, and I don't know how I survived, considering all the times I would randomly lose control and spin out when I hit a patch of ice. It's made me really wary of rear wheel drive cars - is that a problem that's solvable by getting some good winter tires and then swapping between them and some summer tires as appropriate?
 
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31 (41 / -10)

chalex

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...
starts at a more reasonable $57,300
part of a $700 Parking Assistance pack...
our car was also specced with the Driving Assistance Pro pack ($1,700)...
...
so how much does it cost in the end? Is it at least eligible for the $7500 tax credit?
will be nice to see the sales numbers in a year
 
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56 (61 / -5)

bburdge

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We bought a Model 3 a few years ago and are having real regrets. We've been considering this car as a replacement, so I'm glad to hear it's good. My only concern is it being rear wheel drive when we live in Minnesota - I had a Mustang back in college, and I don't know how I survived, considering all the times I would randomly lose control and spin out when I hit a patch of ice. It's made me really wary of rear wheel drive cars - is that a problem that's solvable by getting some good winter tires and then swapping between them and some summer tires as appropriate?
Between good winter tires and hugely improved traction control systems this should be a largely resolved issue.
 
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84 (87 / -3)

Psyact

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Re: the single-motor versions being better EVs -- yep, 100% agree from a practicality standpoint.

I have been shopping potential replacements for my RWD ID.4, and there's a part of me that wants to splurge for a two-motor SUV because a sub-5 second launch to 60 is definitely fun, especially in an SUV. But...I just can't get past the decrease in range. It just doesn't make sense to me right now.

Once we hit 350–400-mile range EVs across the board? Sure, I'll take a 30-mile hit for more power, assuming it's not ridiculously overpriced. But dropping under 300 miles as a lot of these vehicles do for 2-3 motors isn't worth it for a daily driver. On a road trip, I want my comfort to be the limiting factor on when I need to stop, not my vehicle's range.
 
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46 (47 / -1)

Pyperkub

Smack-Fu Master, in training
57
Yet another Car review which doesn't touch the 2 awful truths - 1) How does the car handle Privacy/how does it perform when opting out of data-sharing (f at all possible)? and 2) How is the Car with ZERO subscription services?

As a tech site, I expect better of Ars - please start including this information in ALL car reviews.

As is, when I see "Class leading Technology" I hear that it's great at spying on the "owner".
 
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130 (168 / -38)
We bought a Model 3 a few years ago and are having real regrets. We've been considering this car as a replacement, so I'm glad to hear it's good. My only concern is it being rear wheel drive when we live in Minnesota - I had a Mustang back in college, and I don't know how I survived, considering all the times I would randomly lose control and spin out when I hit a patch of ice. It's made me really wary of rear wheel drive cars - is that a problem that's solvable by getting some good winter tires and then swapping between them and some summer tires as appropriate?
If you have a theft-proof place to store a set of off-season-tired wheels, I'd say yes. I drove a 2-door Datsun 510 in all seasons for seven years and was able to manage most snow conditions, even on unplowed country roads. For ice, I'd add studs. Lots of studs. For lots of ice, I'd add ice-racing studs. Lots of them. And be sure to use the same tires on the front wheels too, so you can still steer when you're up to the windshield in a snow bank. For enhanced rear traction, let your co-driver ride in the trunk. One question mark would be how to manage the strong rear-wheel torque of an EV. Enjoy the ride!
 
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17 (18 / -1)
I wish the EPA ranges just included the 80% charge value vs the 100% best-possible-conditions value. To me the 80% seems like a more useful road trip metric.
Agreed. In a gas car, how often do we wait for the fuel alarm before we start to look for a gas station? Very rarely for me.
 
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48 (48 / 0)

rb1971

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I have a Taycan and although I have the Turbo S, whenever I recommend it to people I tell them to get the GTS. It's not the cheapest or the least powerful, but to me it is the best version. Plus you can get the real wagon in that trim, which is unquestionably the best looking version.

I don't know anyone that's bought the base Taycan but it might be an even better deal.
 
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10 (10 / 0)

ajm8127

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We bought a Model 3 a few years ago and are having real regrets. We've been considering this car as a replacement, so I'm glad to hear it's good. My only concern is it being rear wheel drive when we live in Minnesota - I had a Mustang back in college, and I don't know how I survived, considering all the times I would randomly lose control and spin out when I hit a patch of ice. It's made me really wary of rear wheel drive cars - is that a problem that's solvable by getting some good winter tires and then swapping between them and some summer tires as appropriate?
I have a RWD 2007 335i I drive in Pennsylvania winters. With snow tires it's fine in up to 3-4 inches of snow. I haven't driven it in snow much deeper than that.

This i4 actually ticks a lot of the boxes I would want. It's a sedan. It's not meant to rip your face off with acceleration (and shred tires). It's engaging to drive. Looks like a good car.
 
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sword_9mm

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The only thing I like about this car is that at least they gave it a hatch and didn't saddle it with a lame trunk.

I'm sure it's fine but a BMW fan I surely am not. I'd also pay the extra 10k to get the faster car cause you're already spending waay to much; may as well go for the gold ring.
 
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-18 (2 / -20)

Dr Gitlin

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I have a Taycan and although I have the Turbo S, whenever I recommend it to people I tell them to get the GTS. It's not the cheapest or the least powerful, but to me it is the best version. Plus you can get the real wagon in that trim, which is unquestionably the best looking version.

I don't know anyone that's bought the base Taycan but it might be an even better deal.

The base Taycan is very good, but the Taycan Turbo S is one of the very small exceptions to my rule.
 
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Dr Gitlin

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From the article: "Less power to put down means smaller wheels, which translates into a better ride and more range,"
---
I'm pretty sure larger wheels provide a better ride. Empirical evidence from years of bicycles and cars. Is my empirical evidence wrong? How is 'better ride' defined?

The larger wheels have lower-profile tires and the same overall rolling diameter so no, the ride is worse with larger wheels because there's less sidewall to absorb bumps.
 
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124 (125 / -1)
From the article: "Less power to put down means smaller wheels, which translates into a better ride and more range,"
---
I'm pretty sure larger wheels provide a better ride. Empirical evidence from years of bicycles and cars. Is my empirical evidence wrong? How is 'better ride' defined?
Larger wheels generally means more unsprung weight and smaller sidewalls. Unsprung weight is the enemy of good handling and smooth riding. Smaller sidewalls mean the tire absorbs less of the bump, leaving more of it for the suspension to handle.
 
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75 (76 / -1)
Re: the single-motor versions being better EVs -- yep, 100% agree from a practicality standpoint.
This seems to mostly be marketing rather than the result of real improvements in the design.

While the second motor does add costs (of course, it's a thing); it seems to only be a few thousand dollars (which on a >$50k car isn't game changing). There are no efficiency improvements (indeed: because each motor can optimize for different speeds, there's efficiency loss with a single motor) other than the reduced weight.

But regardless of the reasons (inherent or marketing); the best version is the best.
 
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-15 (1 / -16)
From the article: "Less power to put down means smaller wheels, which translates into a better ride and more range,"
---
I'm pretty sure larger wheels provide a better ride. Empirical evidence from years of bicycles and cars. Is my empirical evidence wrong? How is 'better ride' defined?
Larger wheels have the exact same outside diameter as smaller wheels. The difference is the tyre sidewall height. The tyre is the first line of suspension. Assume it’s 2”, on an 18” wheel, 20” in total. Change that for a 20” wheel, without a tyre, and how comfortable do you think that will be?
 
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26 (28 / -2)
Larger wheels generally means more unsprung weight and smaller sidewalls. Unsprung weight is the enemy of good handling and smooth riding. Smaller sidewalls mean the tire absorbs less of the bump, leaving more of it for the suspension to handle.
Yes, but that's narrowing on one aspect.

Larger-profile wheels offer better shock-absorption than slim wheels, leading to more ride comfort.
Slim wheels offer less lateral flex leading to better control under aggressive maneuvering .
Wider wheels offer better road contact, leading to better handling.
And yes: we'd like the whole assembly to weigh nothing somehow because unsprung weight is bad.
 
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mobby_6kl

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To put into perspective 0-60 5.5 secs is the same as a WRX from back in the day, and only a second slower than a 993-chassis Porsche 911 Turbo.

So it’s still PLENTY FAST to the normal driver.
I dunno, seems dangerously slow to me! How are you going to merge onto a highway with pathetic performance like that?
 
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6 (19 / -13)

Jackattak

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I dunno, seems dangerously slow to me! How are you going to merge onto a highway with pathetic performance like that?
Adding snark to sarcasm:

Based on the amount of high horsepower vehicles I see pulling into the middle lane of the freeway directly from the merge lane going a mere 55 mph, probably won't make a difference. :D
 
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jscottars

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The larger wheels have lower-profile tires and the same overall rolling diameter so no, the ride is worse with larger wheels because there's less sidewall to absorb bumps.
I took the article to mean the overall tire size. Overall size is much larger today than in the 80s (better ride in general whether low profile or not). Thanks for the clarification. So many downvotes on my post! sheesh!
 
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Amitrensis

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Agreed. In a gas car, how often do we wait for the fuel alarm before we start to look for a gas station? Very rarely for me.
Very often for me, as in, every time since there's two gas stations 800m ahead of my workplace. But to be fair I only drive to work and grocery shopping so I can very easily wait for the light without sweating bullets.
My last road trip was six years ago and I didn't wait that long then.
 
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0 (3 / -3)

jonah

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I took the article to mean the overall tire size. Overall size is much larger today than in the 80s (better ride in general whether low profile or not). Thanks for the clarification. So many downvotes on my post! sheesh!
Nobody is talking about the overall tire size when they talk about wheels in car articles.

They're always talking about the wheel size.

In this case, the 19" is the wheel diameter.

At most sane sizes (leaving the extremes out), smaller wheels with more tire sidewall are going to be a) more efficient b) have a more pleasant ride, and c) cheaper.

To get those benefits, you give up a teeny tiny amount of grip.
 
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rhavenn

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We bought a Model 3 a few years ago and are having real regrets. We've been considering this car as a replacement, so I'm glad to hear it's good. My only concern is it being rear wheel drive when we live in Minnesota - I had a Mustang back in college, and I don't know how I survived, considering all the times I would randomly lose control and spin out when I hit a patch of ice. It's made me really wary of rear wheel drive cars - is that a problem that's solvable by getting some good winter tires and then swapping between them and some summer tires as appropriate?
I don't think you understand how to drive in the snow. A "patch of ice" will cause you to lose control no matter what you're driving and personally a RWD drive car is more easier to control than a FWD car. AWD / 4WD on a small patch of ice will be better, but on something large where all 4 wheels are on ice you're still SOL.

I drove a '97 BMW M3 in Minnesota (Twin Cities) area for many years. "Deep snow" is a problem just because of the low height, but same for front-wheel drive sports cars. However, any decently plowed road was fine. Starting from zero was sometimes a little slower than a FWD car, but not by much. The traction control always kept me in a straight line. Older BMWs usually had close to a 50 / 50 weight distribution (don't know about modern ones; I would assume so) so it really didn't matter.

I never drove a Mustang so no idea, but I'd say your college age right-foot was more of the problem than the car. Winter tires are certainly better for snow / slush / slippery, but ice is ice. You'd need studs to help on real ice and I don't remember them being legal in MN.
 
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