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grahamb

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Got a notice from my power company of a scheduled all-day outage in a couple of weeks; looks like I'll finally get to give the HI5's V2L a proper workout to keep the fridge and freezer running. Only used it so far for silly things like using an InstatPot while camping or plugging in the shop vac.
 

grahamb

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Not true in my experience. In my Hyundai (Ioniq Electric) I can set the default regen value to whatever I want for the different drive modes (eco, normal, sport) and then modify with the paddles if I wish. I'd be surprised if the option wasn't there rather than just hidden somewhere non-obvious.

My wife has become accustomed to using the highest regen (level 3) on normal, and I like how it enables more 1-pedal driving with the paddle giving a little more braking when not using the adaptive cruise control.
My 2024 Ioniq 5 behaves the same as @gregatron5 described; it defaults to Level 3 regen (out of 0-3 plus iPedal) when you start the car and there’s no way to override. I believe it’s an eGMP think, so Kias that use the same platform should be the same.
 

grahamb

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Aren't they all like that? My Bolt always starts in Park (duh?) and runs in Drive (minimal liftoff regen, feels like a Turbo Hydra-matic in a Suburban with a V8). One-pedal requires toggling into L whenever you want it, but that's not the default mode. No problem; when out of the driveway, a double-tap into L becomes pretty instinctive.
On my Ioniq 5, and I assume all other E-GMP platforms (Kia, Genesis) there’s just P-N-R-D. Regen modes are controlled by the paddles. The complaint is that there’s no facility to save your default preference. You always start in regen level 3.
 

grahamb

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Just to update on this: I do have the option in one of my profiles. It only works if you have a personal google account logged into maps!

I still don't get the option to select a car, just that it's electric and which plugs it can use.
Same (Canada). I can say I have an EV and choose what plug types, but can't specify the make & model.
 

grahamb

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Let's see, it's a low profile extension of the vehicle, that is dependent entirely on the hitch pin for attachment to the vehicle and has no provisions for safety chains (at least in any versions I've seen), takes weight off the front tires, has no or crappy design for securing stuff to the platform (How am I meant to attach tie downs, as there don't appear to be any places other than to the non-structural expanded metal floor where they wouldn't slip), has generally crappy reflective tape (in three small patches, rather than a contiguous strip which would still be inferior to actual molded reflectors or lights, and nothing from side on.

Overall, if it's overloaded, it reduces steering authority and can more easily come lose than a standard trailer. Unlike a plated trailer, there is no inspection required even initially, for quality. It's easy to load with loose cargo that can be catapulted into the roadway, since there's no good way to secure the cargo from what I can see. It has poor visibility from all aspects, but especially from side on.

Is it a worse risk than half the crap on the road, or the idiots who load their pickups full of junk without tying it down? No. Is it worse than the folks making a lumberyard trip with boards running out the passenger window like they're trying to fucking joust? No. But it presents hazards above and beyond a standard vehicle. All of those can be resolved with additional work and parts, excepting the taking weight off the front tires, which is an inherent part of towing, and you just have to respect the maximum tongue weight rating of your vehicle as the absolute maximum cargo weight inclusive of the rack.
Because the tongue weight is measured at the ball of the hitch, which is usually ~6"-1' behind the hitch receiver, any weight past that point has an additional lever arm, and that 4-runner pictured has a maximum tongue weight rating of 500#s from a casual search, so the prudent weight you should put in that rack is probably less than 200#, inclusive of the rack itself.
Do you consider hitch-mounted bike racks equally as much of a danger?

Re securing objects, this is a non-issue; you can easily run ratchet straps around the objects and around the bottom of the platform.

Inspection requirements are completely local; I have never had any of my trailers inspected.
 

grahamb

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There's a thread to all of this, that particular thread had to do with the degree of ownership you have and alternatives to manufacturer-supplied and/or sanctioned upgrades to your car.
None of which is unique to EVs.
This one goes stagnant/dormant for days/weeks at a time sometimes.
I don't see how that's a problem?
 
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grahamb

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This lane's entrance is also protected by a 🚧 like train crossings that closes when you may not enter. But not as fancy as some moving barrier type contraption somewhere on a big US bridge I forgot the name of.
Zipper barriers. We have them on a bridge here in the Vancouver area too.
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yUWP9ZSBgw0


Anywhere else that uses counterflow lanes is similar to your photo: dynamic electronic signs.

Streetview images spoilered
1762202296492.png

1762202392597.png
 

grahamb

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Our Ioniq 5 as really been a disaster. Most in the shop and most expensive in repairs in the first year by over an order of magnitude over any other car I've owned. Really regret this purchase.

The dealership is telling us that the tires cannot be patched. We average at least 1 nail in a tire per year around here, so I was wondering, is this a thing? Are Hyundai EV tires unable to be patched for some reason? They claim its some kind of noise dampening inside the tire.
The stock HI5 tires (Michelin Primacy) have sound-deadening foam in them. Why are you talking to your dealership about tires and not a proper tire shop?

Besides the tires, what other issues are you having? My 2024 has been (knock on wood) trouble-free so far.
 

grahamb

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Interesting question. It doesn't have a separate accessory battery that I'm aware of and I can't see any mention of one in specs I can find online. What is the reason for some cars having this? There is definitely a cell connection as that is how it gets updates - but maybe it is only active when they vehicle is in use or maybe recently after use.
It almost certainly does have a 12V SLA or AGM battery somewhere to power the electronics, and more importantly close the contactors that engage the traction battery.

EDIT: googling tells me that the BYD Sealion has a 12v LFP battery, so that's at least better than the shitty SLA that Hyundai keeps insisting on using in their cars.
 

grahamb

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Interesting. How does that charge - does it charge off the main battery when the car is started, or does it only charge when actually driving? Or something else?
I can't speak to your car, BYDs aren't a thing here, but for my HI5, the 12v gets topped off as-needed by the high voltage battery, even while parked. There's an orange LED on the dash that comes on while it's charging. The HV battery needs to be above a certain SOC (I think it's 20%) for that to happen.

(EDIT: s/are/aren't/)
 
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grahamb

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Interesting.

Looking online, it seems that this car may come with a different electrical architecture depending on where it is sold - so things may vary according to that too.

From Wikipedia:
Your quote is about the high voltage system that makes the car move, not the 12v low voltage system that powers the rest of the car (the infotainment system, locks, windows, lights, wipers, etc).

You’re overthinking this; your car will be just fine sitting idle for quite a while.
 
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grahamb

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Supposedly it's coming to Hyundai/Kia/Genesis, but there's no timeline for it.
And knowing them, they won’t backport it to older models. Hell, my Canadian 2024 Ioniq 5 still hasn’t received a nav update with Tesla chargers, so I can’t pre-condition for those unless I trick it by navigating to a different charger.
 
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grahamb

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Also same (2024 HI5).

Apart from the lack of the rear windshield washer, the only other things I truly dislike are the lack of manual preconditioning and/or the requirement to use the god-awful on-board nav to trigger preconditioning (grumbles about lack of Canadian nav updates), and that if I forget to drop regen to 0 before entering cruise control, and then turn off cruise control, the regen hits hard unless I accelerate through the regen dead zone on the go-pedal.

Oh, and the tiny frunk on the NA non-AWD models all because they didn't want to have to put a manual release handle in case a kid crawls into it.
 

grahamb

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As for using an app to pay for charging, since most manufacturers opted to implement NACS, you only need the Tesla app in the US, but if you own the car and use it for road trips, having the others may help when charging stations are fewer and farther between.
Huh? The physical characteristics of the port (NACS vs J1772/CCS1) are different from the charging network. There are plenty of non-Tesla branded chargers that have NACS plugs on them; you'd need to use whatever app that network uses.
 

grahamb

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Tesla network charger access is good enough in most areas, unless you frequently take long trips. For instance, in the Northeast, they tend to be overrepresented at rest stops on major interstates and at large gas and convenience stores just off the highways, like Wawa. Now, if I were traveling long distances with the car more often, I would probably sign up for more than one network.
Not if you have an 800V vehicle, and not if you prefer not to give Elon Musk your money.
 
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