HDMI Cables $12 vs. $100 vs. $250

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polar

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20,462
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by civbat:<BR>Can anyone "in the know" tell us the kind of wholesale pricing Monster has? A close acquaintance, who happens to be a salesperson for a local big-box retailer (Futureshop), offered to sell me a 6' Monster HDMI cable for $30 (reg $120). He says that's at cost. I was surprised.<BR><BR>I still ordered from Monoprice. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I think Caustic, can get them for less than $10, he's mentioned in other threads.
 
All cables are not created equal, but as others have said, for casual home use most cables, even the cheap monoprice stuff should suffice.<BR><BR>However, it's been my experience on the road that the cheap cables are simply a waste of money, as terminations break, plugs pull off, etc.<BR><BR>Believe it or not, some of our Monster cables have turned out to be the most durable.
 

caustic meatloaf

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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by polar:<BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by civbat:<BR>Can anyone "in the know" tell us the kind of wholesale pricing Monster has? A close acquaintance, who happens to be a salesperson for a local big-box retailer (Futureshop), offered to sell me a 6' Monster HDMI cable for $30 (reg $120). He says that's at cost. I was surprised.<BR><BR>I still ordered from Monoprice. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I think Caustic, can get them for less than $10, he's mentioned in other threads. </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR><BR>Some I can for that - the no-name stuff (Rocketfish, dynex), is even cheaper.<BR><BR><BR>Typically, ANY cable will have between 80% and 95% of its price as pure profit. Monster stuff tends to be a bit lower on profit margin, but they offer ultra-special deals to sales folks who sell the hell out of it.<BR><BR><BR>personally, i'd rather go with some other snake oil salesman than Monster - AudioQuest if you want shiny, Dynex/Rocketfish if you just want something that'll work.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GuitarAficionado:<BR>All cables are not created equal, but as others have said, for casual home use most cables, even the cheap monoprice stuff should suffice.<BR><BR>However, it's been my experience on the road that the cheap cables are simply a waste of money, as terminations break, plugs pull off, etc.<BR><BR>Believe it or not, some of our Monster cables have turned out to be the most durable. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I unfortunately paid $30 for my HDMI cable for my PS3 from EB Games as I needed a HDMI cable ASAP and didn't know where the cheap cable shops were in Calgary. $30 is too much, $9 is a good price. This isn't a composite cable with analog signals traveling down it. <BR><BR>But seriously, what do you do with your cables, jump rope? I plug mine in and that's where they stay unless I'm moving house. <BR><BR>Pre-HDMI I bought all my Component and S-Video gables from Active Surplus in Toronto, and I've never had any problems with a cable spontaneously breaking while in use.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by caustic meatloaf:<BR>personally, i'd rather go with some other snake oil salesman than Monster - AudioQuest if you want shiny, Dynex/Rocketfish if you just want something that'll work. </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>I was about to say that, as far as overpriced cables go, Monster is about the worst, AudioQuest will get you further on less cash
 

topham

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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by davis:<BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GuitarAficionado:<BR>All cables are not created equal, but as others have said, for casual home use most cables, even the cheap monoprice stuff should suffice.<BR><BR>However, it's been my experience on the road that the cheap cables are simply a waste of money, as terminations break, plugs pull off, etc.<BR><BR>Believe it or not, some of our Monster cables have turned out to be the most durable. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I unfortunately paid $30 for my HDMI cable for my PS3 from EB Games as I needed a HDMI cable ASAP and didn't know where the cheap cable shops were in Calgary. $30 is too much, $9 is a good price. This isn't a composite cable with analog signals traveling down it. <BR><BR>But seriously, what do you do with your cables, jump rope? I plug mine in and that's where they stay unless I'm moving house. <BR><BR>Pre-HDMI I bought all my Component and S-Video gables from Active Surplus in Toronto, and I've never had any problems with a cable spontaneously breaking while in use. </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>I doubt anyone here has a big issue with the idea of paying $30 for a cable to have it -NOW-, instead of waiting a few days to receive something in the mail. (Especially since Monster seems to have flushed most cheap brands out of the retail channel). I mean, you buy that PS3 on a Friday, who wants to wait till Monday/Tuesday to play it? <BR><BR>Just don't buy the $30, or $60-$120 Cable thinking you're paying for the quality difference between a $10 and a $60 cable.<BR><BR>Which reminds me, I have to prod my dad and see if he's returned the $60 HDMI monster cable he bought last week (3ft, it's too short anyway) as the DVR came with a 6ft HDMI cable anyway.
 

cbreaker

Seniorius Lurkius
4
You know.. digital signals offer a lot more than a pretty picture.<BR><BR>You also need a hell of a lot less fidelity in your cable systems. It's digital; 101010101010. That's all. The cables need to be able to reliably carry 1's and 0's; not a wide range of signal frequencies and power like an analog cable would have to carry.<BR><BR>With Digital, generally the rule of thumb is that it works or does not work. There's not going to be a fuzzy picture or low quality sound when the signal is bad - the signal will cut out completely.<BR><BR>I use cheap HDMI cables from whatever internet cable places online. I have some doing longer 30ft runs, others doing 6ft runs. I never pay more than $20 for a cable and my system runs like a champ.<BR><BR>Remember: 101010101. That's all!
 
<blockquote class="ip-ubbcode-quote">
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div>
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by 3NV7:<br>Pretty cables? Is this actually a concern to anyone? -- View image here: http://episteme.meincmagazine.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_confused.gif -- All my HDMI cables sit behind my entertainment center... they're actually orange. Not that it matters, as no one can see them anyway. </div>
</blockquote>
<br><br>Well, I don't care about pretty, but when I set up my dad's home theater, I got every different color of the rainbow. I then emailed myself what the cables were connected to. Now, rather than asking him if the cable he accidentally pulled out while moving furniture was a component, composite, or subwoofer, I just ask the color.<br><br>"The orange one goes from your Dish box to your receiver, the blue goes from the DVD to the receiver, the white goes from the receiver to the TV."<br><br>Makes my life easier.
 

Otis Wildflower

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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by GuitarAficionado:<BR>All cables are not created equal, but as others have said, for casual home use most cables, even the cheap monoprice stuff should suffice. </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>Agreed, also be sure to check the cable spec, especially with longer runs.. I got an el-cheapo 5m from newegg which would not stably handle 1080p (but would work fine with 720p).. Replacing it with a monoprice 1.3b cable solved the problem.<BR><BR>I don't begrudge Monster though, as I'm a firm believer that a fool and his money are not only soon parted, but they _should_ be soon parted. In the age of the internets, there's no excuse for not doing at least cursory research...
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TheSpike:<BR>Also, don't forget the Denon 1.5m Ethernet cable for $500, complete with directional arrows. </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>The link is worth it for the reviews:<BR><BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"><BR><BR>The Denon ADKL1 Dedicated Link Cable is my favorite worldly possession. Late at night, I lie awake in anticipation of the day I can afford to replace my receiver with one which can connect to this, the ultimate digital cable.<BR>This particular digital cable somehow makes your ones more one with the universe and your zeros less so, so it acts like an expander for your mind and soul. I haven't connected it yet, but already I feel comforted and more alive than ever.<BR>My receiver lacks the requisite female connector and that makes it seem so useless, like the kind of receiver a poor person or an imbecile would have. I've become self-conscious about owning it, and have hidden it and my shame away until such time as I become worthy of a proper receiver. I post this review as a sort of audiophile confessional to assuage my deep and abiding hatred for myself. Soon, I will return to the beautiful Denon shipping container to handle this magnificent cable, but I must wait for the sun to kiss the horizon and provide suitable lighting for such an activity. </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"><BR>I bought this cable but it refused to plug into my Samsung and Pioneer equipment. When I forced it to connect with them anyway, it killed itself in shame. So I ordered a replacement, but instead of plugging it into inferior devices I plugged it into my Apple Powerbook. There was a brief shudder in the room and a wormhole formed where my bedroom wall had been. Unfortunately, the nascent event horizon killed my cat, leaving her head here and her body on Abidos. Then Amanda Tapping stepped through the wormhole and zatted me as punishment for driving the first cable to an untimely death. She told me that she had created these cables in collaboration with the replicators. It has a naquda core and a neutronium nanite shield. It was originally intended for use in Merlin's anti-Ori weapon, but the series was coming to an end, Tapping had blown all of her income on hair extensions, and Denon made her a very generous offer for her patent on the technology. Unfortunately, Denon's accounting department realized that they had to price the cable at a point that would allow them to recoup this investment on the sale of only a few hundred cables worldwide, hence the steep price. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
 

stud

Ars Tribunus Angusticlavius
7,811
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">The cables need to be able to reliably carry 1's and 0's; not a wide range of signal frequencies and power like an analog cable would have to carry.<BR> </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>The square wave representing those 1's and 0's has a theoretically infinite bandwidth...frequency response and the characteristic impedance of the cable are important.
 

3NV7

Ars Praetorian
489
<blockquote class="ip-ubbcode-quote">
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div>
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by English_C6H^:<br><blockquote class="ip-ubbcode-quote">
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div>
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by 3NV7:<br>Pretty cables? Is this actually a concern to anyone? -- View image here: http://episteme.meincmagazine.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_confused.gif -- All my HDMI cables sit behind my entertainment center... they're actually orange. Not that it matters, as no one can see them anyway. </div>
</blockquote>
<br><br>Well, I don't care about pretty, but when I set up my dad's home theater, I got every different color of the rainbow. I then emailed myself what the cables were connected to. Now, rather than asking him if the cable he accidentally pulled out while moving furniture was a component, composite, or subwoofer, I just ask the color.<br><br>"The orange one goes from your Dish box to your receiver, the blue goes from the DVD to the receiver, the white goes from the receiver to the TV."<br><br>Makes my life easier. </div>
</blockquote>
<br>That makes sense. But that doesn't really address why anyone would care if their cables are "pretty" or not -- View image here: http://episteme.meincmagazine.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif --
 

jonah

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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by stud:<BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">The cables need to be able to reliably carry 1's and 0's; not a wide range of signal frequencies and power like an analog cable would have to carry.<BR> </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>The square wave representing those 1's and 0's has a theoretically infinite bandwidth...frequency response and the characteristic impedance of the cable are important. </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Thank you for beating me to correcting this bullshit claim. Just because something's "digital" doesn't obviate the need for a cable of the proper wire gauge and impedance for the application.
 

StanGable

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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by jonah:<BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by stud:<BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">The cables need to be able to reliably carry 1's and 0's; not a wide range of signal frequencies and power like an analog cable would have to carry.<BR> </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>The square wave representing those 1's and 0's has a theoretically infinite bandwidth...frequency response and the characteristic impedance of the cable are important. </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR>Thank you for beating me to correcting this bullshit claim. Just because something's "digital" doesn't obviate the need for a cable of the proper wire gauge and impedance for the application. </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>And no, this does *NOT* mean your silver speaker wire sounds different than lampcord...
 

DriverGuru

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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by stud:<BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">The cables need to be able to reliably carry 1's and 0's; not a wide range of signal frequencies and power like an analog cable would have to carry.<BR> </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>The square wave representing those 1's and 0's has a theoretically infinite bandwidth...frequency response and the characteristic impedance of the cable are important. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> Wellll... any reasonable digital interface standard specifies slew rate limiting. The waves aren't square when they're sent and certainly don't need to be square into the receiver. <BR><BR>Of course I'm not saying you <I>don't</I> need sufficient bandwidth and correct impedance. Just that the notion that the cable needs to pass square waves intact is misleading.
 

DriverGuru

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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">And no, this does *NOT* mean your silver speaker wire sounds different than lampcord... </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>Won't somebody please think of the NUANCES! <BR><BR>If we can save just one nuance, it'll all be worth it...
 

stud

Ars Tribunus Angusticlavius
7,811
<blockquote class="ip-ubbcode-quote">
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div>
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Just that the notion that the cable needs to pass square waves intact is misleading. </div>
</blockquote>
<br><br>You're right, I was just trying to dispel the notion that:<br><br> <blockquote class="ip-ubbcode-quote">
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div>
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"> The cables need to be able to reliably carry 1's and 0's; not a wide range of signal frequencies </div>
</blockquote>
<br><br>which I think is a little more misleading. -- View image here: http://episteme.meincmagazine.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif --
 

DriverGuru

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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by HodyOne:<BR>Since it's come to this, isn't it technically true that an HDMI cable does not need to carry "a wide range of signal frequencies and power" </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>The power is minimal but the frequency range is very broad. Taken to the most fundamental (hah), to send n bits/sec you need an analog bandwidth of more than n/2 Hz. (How much more depends on the noise in the channel.) Note the word "width" imbedded in "bandwidth". Just passing a signal at n/2 Hz is not sufficient - this is not "bandwidth". If n/2 is 300 MHz, then a bandpass from 0 to 300 MHz will do, as will a bandpass from 400 to 700.
 

Commodore75

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9,169
<blockquote class="ip-ubbcode-quote">
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div>
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by ShuggyCoUk:<br><blockquote class="ip-ubbcode-quote">
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div>
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Makes my life easier. </div>
</blockquote>
<br><br>Genius - I'm nabbing that idea -- View image here: http://episteme.meincmagazine.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_smile.gif -- </div>
</blockquote> ++ and ++<br><br>Thank you <b>English_C6H^</b> ! <blockquote class="ip-ubbcode-quote">
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div>
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TheSpike:<br>Also, don't forget the Denon 1.5m Ethernet cable for $500, complete with directional arrows. </div>
</blockquote>Why . . . why would they do that? <br>(Except to give us the reviews, of course.)
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by hoyle1911:<BR>Monster cables belong with the same people who buy Wii Fit instead of doing actual exercise for free. A fool and his money are soon parted. </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>Apparently, you've never seen the "Reasons to buy your girlfriend a Wii Fit" video.<BR><BR>Monoprice just saved me about $1000 buying from them, all CL2 rated cable (where possible) and a tilting & swiveling television wall mount. They seem to no longer carry a significant portion of items from when I purchased a year ago, most of which were not replaced with anything, but oh well. I realize that I may be taking a chance on the wall mount, but if it's not able to overcome my risk anxiety threshold, I'll be sending it back.
 

tomsawyer16

Seniorius Lurkius
6
I have a friend who works at a big box(Best Buy). Got a 6' Rocketfish HDMI cable from him for $7. Retails for something like $80. The Monster would have been $30-ish. I know there should be some markup but aren't there laws against charging 1100% above cost? And if there aren't, shouldn't there be?<BR><BR>For the record, cable works just fine on my new BD player. Would have bought it online but wouldn't have had it in time for xmas.
 

continuum

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<blockquote class="ip-ubbcode-quote">
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div>
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">p but aren't there laws against charging 1100% above cost? And if there aren't, shouldn't there be? </div>
</blockquote>No, why should there be? If you want that, go move to a socialist state. -- View image here: http://episteme.meincmagazine.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif --<br><br>If I can't buy from Monoprice, I buy from Cablewholesale or Newegg... -- View image here: http://episteme.meincmagazine.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_razz.gif --
 

3NV7

Ars Praetorian
489
<blockquote class="ip-ubbcode-quote">
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div>
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by continuum:<br><blockquote class="ip-ubbcode-quote">
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div>
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">p but aren't there laws against charging 1100% above cost? And if there aren't, shouldn't there be? </div>
</blockquote>No, why should there be? If you want that, go move to a socialist state. -- View image here: http://episteme.meincmagazine.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif -- </div>
</blockquote>
<br><br>Or just wait a few months -- View image here: https://cdn.arstechnica.net/forum/smilies/gavel.gif --
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Commodore75:<BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TheSpike:<BR>Also, don't forget the Denon 1.5m Ethernet cable for $500, complete with directional arrows. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Why . . . why would they do that? <BR>(Except to give us the reviews, of course.) </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>The directional arrows usually indicated which end of the cable's shield is grounded - this should just be the end that's going into the signal receiving device. However $500 seems a little excessive. Lifting the shield from the output device's chassis ground can reduce a lot of ground-loop hum, depending of the gear being used. (Properly grounding my incoming Cable TV coax near my audio equipment paid the biggest dividends for reducing hum in my audio system.)
 

cuvtixo

Ars Scholae Palatinae
1,026
<blockquote class="ip-ubbcode-quote">
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div>
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by continuum:<br>No, why should there be? If you want that, go move to a socialist state. -- View image here: http://episteme.meincmagazine.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif -- </div>
</blockquote>
<br>As if that's the choice! -- View image here: http://episteme.meincmagazine.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_rolleyes.gif -- <br>Why oversee the loans banks make?- why not let them lend to anyone and bundle these loans and resell them without gov't inteference?? Because sometimes there are reprecussions beyond isolated customers, that's why. Fools like you are leading us into the next Depression- and you'll turn around and be the first to cry how unfair it all is. I hope a Madoff screws you royally.
 
<blockquote class="ip-ubbcode-quote">
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div>
<div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Digitali:<br>Correction: you get buyer's remorse. </div>
</blockquote>
<br><br>Correction: John Smith tells Joe Blow that his HD picture is better because he has the Monster Ultra9000 HDMI cable between his 720p Dynex LCD and his Blu Ray. (And as such, has no buyers remorse. Infact, he's thrilled shitless that he can rub his neighbors nose in it. He LOVES his $175 HDMI cable and his life simply wouldn't be complete without it. Lest not forget, John is like most, a part of what is unfortunately the majority, sheep who will buy anything because the package says it's better. It's more expensive so it HAS to be better, right? (Insert Hyundai Genesis vs BMW schtick here -- View image here: http://episteme.meincmagazine.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif -- ))<br><br>Joe Blow then kicks John Smith in the nuts because he knows John is an idiot. Joe instead spent the extra coin on a 1080P Panasonic plasma and a $10 cable from Monoprice instead of a $175 (!!!!!) 8ft HDMI cable. Poor John.<br><br>I'll admit that I own a few Monster cables. Many moon ago when I was an associate at ye ole' Radio Shack, we got stupid ridiculous discounts on them and their build quality is generally very good, Time Correct Windings and Magnetic Flux Tube or not.<br><br>It was right when we started carrying monster. We could buy the cables in store for a 30% discount off of retail or if you could stand to wait, you could fill out a form, fax it over to Monster and get 60% off of the cables. I always called mine in and sweet talked the nice ladies into free shipping -- View image here: http://episteme.meincmagazine.com/groupee_common/emoticons/icon_wink.gif --
 

esquilax

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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Obelisk:<BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Commodore75:<BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TheSpike:<BR>Also, don't forget the Denon 1.5m Ethernet cable for $500, complete with directional arrows. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Why . . . why would they do that? <BR>(Except to give us the reviews, of course.) </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>The directional arrows usually indicated which end of the cable's shield is grounded - this should just be the end that's going into the signal receiving device. However $500 seems a little excessive. Lifting the shield from the output device's chassis ground can reduce a lot of ground-loop hum, depending of the gear being used. (Properly grounding my incoming Cable TV coax near my audio equipment paid the biggest dividends for reducing hum in my audio system.) </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>It's an ethernet cable. Hum?
 

death_to_novell

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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">there is no change in resistance the bigger or smaller the cable </div></BLOCKQUOTE>That whole R = ρL/A where L is the length and A is the cross-sectional area thing would like you have a word with you.
 

DriverGuru

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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by esquilax:<BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Obelisk:<BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Commodore75:<BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TheSpike:<BR>Also, don't forget the Denon 1.5m Ethernet cable for $500, complete with directional arrows. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Why . . . why would they do that? <BR>(Except to give us the reviews, of course.) </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>The directional arrows usually indicated which end of the cable's shield is grounded - this should just be the end that's going into the signal receiving device. However $500 seems a little excessive. Lifting the shield from the output device's chassis ground can reduce a lot of ground-loop hum, depending of the gear being used. (Properly grounding my incoming Cable TV coax near my audio equipment paid the biggest dividends for reducing hum in my audio system.) </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>It's an ethernet cable. Hum? </div></BLOCKQUOTE><BR><BR>Welll... any "extra" connection between the chassis grounds of two different devices can lead to ground loop hum, even though the connection might be the shield on an Ethernet cable. The fact that the Ethernet cable is not carrying baseband audio is pretty much irrelevant. <BR><BR>At which end you're supposed to not have the shield connected, or whether you should do that at all, is actually a matter of some debate. See, for example, http://www.rane.com/note151.html :<BR><BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content"><BR>Another common solution to hum and buzz problems involves disconnecting one end of the shield, even though one can not buy off-the-shelf cables with the shield disconnected at one end. The best end to disconnect is unimportant in this discussion. A one-end-only shield connection increases the possibility of radio frequency (RF) interference since the shield may act as an antenna. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> In other words, you may solve your ground loop hum problems, only to find RF noise ingress from lamp dimmers and the like. <BR><BR>Continuing: <BR><BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">The fact that many modern day installers still follow the one-end-only rule with consistent success indicates that acceptable solutions to RF issues exist, though the increasing use of digital technology increases the possibility of future RF problems. Many successfully and consistently reduce RF interference by providing an RF path through a small capacitor connected from the lifted end of the shield to the chassis.<BR> </div></BLOCKQUOTE> And since that was written, Neutrik has introduced a line of XLR connectors with those capacitors built in. Pretty clever. <BR><BR>So, which end of the shield do you disconnect? Sweetwater Sound's glossary claims it should be at the source end: <BR>http://www.sweetwater.com/expe...t--TelescopingShield<BR><BR>And these folks say it should be disconnected at the destination end: http://www.equitech.com/support/wiring.html<BR><BR>My experience is that except in some pretty unusual cases, which end of the shield you lift doesn't really matter... and in the cases where it does matter, changing it from one end to the other usually doesn't change things <I>enough</I> to matter (the result either way is not good enough). <BR><BR>But the fact that the arrow is there, IF it is actually implying a shield lifted at one end (something I wouldn't bet on with every cable maker), and assuming there is no other connection in the cable from ground to ground... then the presence of the arrow is significant for avoiding ground loop hum. But the arrow's direction is not! For the purposes of breaking the ground loop, which end of the shield is grounded does not matter. <BR><BR>For unbalanced connections like RCA, having your shield disconnected at one end will <I>not</I> eliminate ground loop hum, since the ground side of the RCA jacks must be connected through the cable. Whether this is done via the shield braid or one side of a twisted pair that's inside the shield doesn't change anything - you can still get ground loop hum from any RCA cable that properly connects its plugs to each other.
 
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