Chocolate

Diabolical

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I was going through my local whole foods, and noticed a slight change in one of the chocolate bars they offer.

This is the old bar on the left, new bar on the right.

1779597184406.png -> 1779597386694.png

It’s the same varietal (Contamana), but the location is different. The one on the left is from an area very near Cusco. The new bar is from Rupa-Rupa, which is over 400 miles as the crow flies north-by-north-west. The original bar was a 3 of 5 for me, so I figure, hey… let’s try the new one!

I’m glad I did.



Peruvian Signature Dark
by jcoco Craft Chocolate
https://jcocochocolate.com/products/peruvian-signature-dark-chocolate-bar

Cacao: 85%
Type: The full size bar is actually 3 individually packaged 1oz / 28g bars. Each small bar is perforated into 6 equal segments for easy snapping.
Varietal: Claimed to be Contamana (the C-Spot for details).
Description: A single origin chocolate from Rupa-Rupa, Peru. (Google Maps)
Notes: On the website: “Nutty, fruity, sour.”
jcoco also lists a LOT of details as far as acidity, astringency, bitterness, finish, aroma, etc in their ‘Tasting Notes’ section.



Music throughout - just a mix of contemporary rock releases. Nothing of note.

Session One:
Prime -> Dark and Rich. Very cacao/chocolate forward at the start, and through the rest of the tasting. Fruit tones during the melt, and some floral hints as well.
Full chew, then melt -> Fruit at the mid tongue during the melt with…. A nut of some sort? Brazil nuts, maybe? Along with some sort of bread, with more floral hints.
Back teeth -> More nuts on the melt. Side tongue is dried fruit… raisin?
Long melt -> Cacao forward into fruit.

Nicely balanced. A little acidic during the melt, a little astringent on the finish. Nothing overwhelming. Notably, nothing nibby! This is a big plus for me.

Session Two:
I spent the majority of the session running through different areas of the mouth and different chew/melt combinations, seeing what was “best” for me.
Melt for a bit towards the back of the mouth, then slowly Chew almost fully, then final Melt -> Get the whole gamut of flavor tones. Chocolate forward with some fruit, a touch of nuts and some floral notes, and then a slightly sour fruit finish. That’s pretty darn good.



Dia’s rating: 5 of 5 :)biggreen:)
I would definitely buy more of this. It’s regularly stocked at the local Whole Foods, so if I’m feeling the need for something darker? This is high on the list. I really like the fact that it’s not super nibby and in your face bitter. Very balanced, and a wonderful “cleanser” after the Milk Chocolate Adobo that was just all over the place with the flavors.

Differences to the previous bar, according to my notes? The fruit tones were a lot more subtle on the earlier bar. It was also a touch more sour, but retained the overall balanced profile between acidity/astringency/bitterness. The previous bar I wanted to be a bit sweeter; the new bar doesn’t need that additional sweetness.

Also, the details given by the C-Spot for Contamana largely match what I was tasting.



I have been trying to kind of roll over in my head some sort of compass rating system with maybe an axis from one note to symphony and another from good to bad or something? I don't know, something I have been mulling, and I would be interested to hear your thoughts!

Maybe a shaded radar? This is not reflective of what you actually felt, just a quick demonstration.

1779599583850.jpeg


Although that doesn’t feel right either. Hmm.

Man, this is hard. Because ‘good/bad’ enjoyment can change as you get further into a bar, or as a piece melts. Something that starts as a light note but becomes the dominant tone in the aftertaste can totally alter the perception.

Possibly a second radar wheel, but instead of a regular radar plot, you rate enjoyment from 0 to 4. Use a star pattern instead of the plot, and have each ‘spike’ of the star be color coded - green for positive, red for negative. You could even overlay them.

Something like…

1779600679132.jpeg


So you have the notes and their forwardness/notability. And then you rate your enjoyment of them.

So that map would have the following “description” for the ‘enjoyment’ star.
The chocolate is awesome. The fruit is good, and the acidity provides a nice bite. The astringency is strong, and is mildly unpleasant. And the nut is one of those nearly-bad pistachios. And the bar starts with a nice degree of sweetness but becomes a bit too much.




I’m debating on adding a flavor wheel / radar plot to my tastings. But I think I need to get over to the fountain pen / stationary thread, because I’ll need to append a wheel to the notes in my book. It would also change up how many pages would be used in my book. And what gets a wheel and what doesn’t…. Lots to consider. And what do I do with the over 150 bars that DON’T have one?!

For example, here is the entry I just made for the jcoco bar, with where I think a radar wheel would go:

1779601392909.jpeg
 
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This weekend? I’m trying the Luisa Abram Acará River 70%. I’m still on the fence… I think I ‘unlocked’ it on the final piece of the first session, so it’ll be a few days until I come back to it… and I think I need to bring a glass of hot water to the table to clear the mouth every couple of pieces. Until that last piece, I was struggling with whether I liked it or not, or if it was just too subtle for my palate… that last piece hit like a damn sledgehammer, and now I need to try some more to see if I can ‘find’ the chocolate where it’s at consistently.

@DemonYoshi, do you have a blank version of your chocolate radar wheel you can post so I can steal appropriate borrow steal it? I can make one from scratch, but I’m lazy. :p. I want to try it out for the Luisa Abram entries in my book; printing it and taping or pasting it in.
 
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DemonYoshi

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@DemonYoshi, do you have a blank version of your chocolate radar wheel you can post so I can steal appropriate borrow steal it? I can make one from scratch, but I’m lazy. :p. I want to try it out for the Luisa Abram entries in my book; printing it and taping or pasting it in.

Do you want the one I use on the cards for parties? The one I post on here with reviews is just an Excel file I add each entry to.

I'm hoping to get back to the thread with a bar or two and replies to the above this weekend!
 
Never mind, I built one in Numbers on my ipad. :p

Oh, and how about something like THIS to show variance in good/bad along with how present a flavor tone is?
I set Overall to be the max of any of the values preceding it. At first I had it as a sum, but that felt wrong.

Click to embiggen.

1780120342813.png

Then it’ll be a matter of printing the diagram at work, then sticking it in my book.
 
I have completed the exploration of the Luisa Abram Acará River 70%.
And it took me until the very last bite to determine that yes, I like it, and I would buy more of it.
I also had a wildly different tasting experience than what I’ve read about online for this chocolate, as far as the notes/tones.

Going to have to sit on this one for a few days, marshal my thoughts.
 
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DemonYoshi

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I sort of started with a negative chocolate review, I also tried another bar that was disappointing at first blush, but then I tried this one and I can't help but share this experience.

Chocolate Tree - Colombia Arhuaco 70%

I think an 85% version of this bar would rank higher with me. I do understand that flavor complexity goes down with higher cacao content, but coming from two 90/100% bars earlier, this was distractingly sweet.

So I know it took me a bit to get back to this, but it was quite funny to see this as for my last posting I was debating between what I posted and what I have for you today which is.... a 100% bar from Chocolate Tree. I went into this bar with very moderate expectations. When I first saw Chocolate Tree I thought they were the brand I'd gotten some really delicious stuff from when I was in Edinburgh. Turns out they weren't. But because I thought they were I ordered an assortment of bars from them. At least 3 70% bars, an 85%, a 100% and a milk and dark milk. And what you've got in your review is I would say pretty accurate to what I found, though I did not make notes on them at the time. The problem was it was the same for every origin! Beautiful molds on the bars, technically well executed in terms of texture and melt but every bar was the same dang thing (except for the 100%, milk and dark milk). So I approached this 100% bar with a bit of trepidation.

Belize Black 100%
by Chocolate Tree
Today's tasting accompaniment: of Montreal - Let's Relate
Cacao content: 100%
Cacao origin: Belize
Size: 55g bar
Ingredients: Pure cacao
Claimed flavor notes: Figs, Pineapple, Raisins
Claimed varietal: Native Criollo, Upper Amazon Hybrids (IDK, plausible! Native Criollo is a funny phrase though)


belize_black.png


Color: Very dark brown ~95.65.65RGB
Shine: Gloss

Physical Elements:
Snap: Hard Soft Crumbly
Melt: Fast Slow
Texture: Grainy Smooth Creamy Chalky Waxy
Other: Astringent Acidic
Aroma:
Strength: Bold Mild Subtle
Notes: Fruity Nutty Earthy Floral Chocolate Roasty Caramel
Radar Chart:

ct_belize_radar.png



Flavor Notes:
Opens as a sour-bitter base with some chocolate overtones. Chewing concentrates the sour-bitter and hides the chocolate. The chew does tease out some roastyness and nuttyness. Sourness is like that of... an extremely underripe stone fruit with absolutely no fruit notes to it? Green almond? Not much else here to work with.

Inclusions: N/A
Rating:

Texture: 4/5​
Aroma: 2/5​
Flavor: 1/5​
Overall: 2/5​

Other notes: So, like, accuse me of going in with negative preconceptions and you aren't wrong. And 100% bars are difficult at the best of times, but I have to say I don't think I'll be picking up any Chocolate Tree in the future. I have had worse 100% bars. This did have flavors besides bitter and sour. Technically well executed on texture and mold, and love their tessellating molds, extremely cool. I just wish the flavor situation ended up better, across the entire brand. I ended up using bits from about half the bar in my oatmeal here and there over the last 2 weeks, goes pretty good there!
 
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DemonYoshi

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Never mind, I built one in Numbers on my ipad. :p

Oh, and how about something like THIS to show variance in good/bad along with how present a flavor tone is?
I set Overall to be the max of any of the values preceding it. At first I had it as a sum, but that felt wrong.

Click to embiggen.

View attachment 136057

Then it’ll be a matter of printing the diagram at work, then sticking it in my book.
Yeah, something along the lines of this could work quite well.

The initial kernel came, seriously, from a dream. And in the dream I had a political compass style with one axis being enchanting-intoxicating and by the time I finished waking up I couldn't recall what the other one was named or what it was supposed to be. The enchanting-intoxicating axis also doesn't even really work as an axis because the concept was intoxicating was a moreish type area on the graph and the enchanting side was something that was unique and intriguing and made you want to follow that flavor note, which... are not really two opposed sides of an axis! Maybe as the positive side of two different ones. I'm still rolling this over in my head to see if I can make something along those lines that works. But you know, dream logic being what it is, maybe not.

One of the things I've found really interesting with the radar charts overall, is I find them very useful in hindsight. When I'm engaged with that bar I evaluate and record it, but it doesn't mean too much in the moment. But going back and looking at different bars and comparing them is where it really hits as a way to group and classify bars and think about brands and origins.

On another note, I hadn't noticed that origin change on the Jcoco bar so I also picked one up the last time I was there after seeing your post.
 
Here we go:

Auro Saloy Single Estate 100% Cacao 60g

AuroSaloy100_540x.jpg


A bar from the Philippines, south island, single estate. I have no preconceived notions other than taking a tiny bite when I got it in and it was unlike anything else.

Aroma is already different from any previous chocolate. Floral chocolate, maybe a banana-ey note?

small piece, let it melt
starts surprisingly smooth, slow melt. There is that aroma again. Earthy, typical 100% chocolate flavor but without any burnt flavors or acidity at all. Only becomes bitter when chewing.

Bigger piece, with chew
EXPLOSION of floral and fruity. Floral aroma, fruity flavor. A bit of acidity but no astringency. Very little cocoa flavor. Amazing mouthfeel. Finishes on only the nice bits, barely bitter, not acid at all, not astringent, maybe a hint of sweetness.

Another big piece, let's concentrate on finding all the nuances
Yes, there is acidity now that I'm looking for it. If I push the tip of my tongue into the piece it feels things. But with a longer melt, I now also get more cacao. This is like... the perfect 100% bar? It is immensely nice. I like bitter chocolate but I like non-bitter dark chocolate more :p Wait, now I'm getting Danone vibes? This could be a demonic cross between a Danone yoghurt and dark chocolate.

What's this? now I get a small bit that is way more acidic. I think this bar is not homogeneous, and that's a good thing.

After two big pieces there is some bitterness in the finish. I like that amount.

After finishing writing this (like 15 min later) I still have only the good flavors and aromas in my mouth.

Final rating: 4/5 (I think an 85% would be a 5/5)

-----------

I think I'm starting to get the vibe of this boutique chocolate thing. This is very fun. I got one absolutely terrible and one mediocre bar before this one and kinda lost hope, but this is exactly what I was hoping for: an actual new experience. Not all chocolate is one-note. There is fun to be had in this hobby!

As to this bar specifically: I was getting convinced that 100% cacao is missing part of the experience, because the lack of sugar also hides the chocolate flavor a LOT. It also does here. I think my preference for very dark chocolate made me buy the wrong bars. 70-90% is what I should aim for. I also think the fruity notes would come in much more clearly with a little bit of sugar, now I just got some very weird aromas, like chewing on a bouquet of flowers - stem first. That being said, for a 100% bar.... man this is good! How did they get a bar so forward in good aromas and flavors and so lacking in the characteristic off/burnt/astringent notes? What are they doing that the others fail to do? That german 8g mini-bar was ONLY the bad parts of chocolate, and I feel like this Auro bar has to be very close to the best a 100% bar can be.

Ended up not doing the radar plot.
 
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DemonYoshi

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@DemonYoshi I wonder what your assessment of the 85% is. I found the 70% too sweet (it overwhelmed any nuance) and the 100% is somewhat predictably disappointing. Maybe the balance is in the middle? Especially because a 100% bar will always be very bitter/astringent forward and will hide the subtler flavor notes.
From Chocolate Tree specifically it was a less sweet version of the 70% bars. This is somewhat but not completely replicable across makers. Some makers will target a pretty specific general flavor profile and their ~70%, ~80%, and ~90% bars will be variations upon that mainly differing in sweetness. Some makers are targeting entirely different profiles across the different percentages. All of which is to say, if you have a maker or origin or maker/origin combination you like, mid 80% or low 90% bars are probably a good choice if you like what they're doing but find 70% too sweet!

And on your note about 100% bars hiding some of the notes with the lack of sugar: absolutely! The 70-75% range for so many bars is considered the optimum mix for appreciating flavor notes by many if not the vast majority of makers. And that is, in large part, because of the key interplay of sugar in helping those flavors show up and pop.

However, with you being more sugar sensitive, I would imagine that sweet spot(no pun intended) for you will lie in the 80%s.

As for how Auro did such a good job with the 100% bar, I can't speak to anything about them in particular, but there is so little margin for error in every step of the way on 100% bars. Screw up the ferment? It is going to be noticeable. Roast it too much or too little? Will absolutely show up in the bar. Insufficient conching? You'll notice it! They're the hardest bars to make and some origins or even particular harvests from an origin are just going to be blasting you with unpleasant notes no matter how well they're processed. Mass market produced 100% from blends sourced all over the place are likely to be a bit more tamed and not as spikey, but they'll also have all the interesting bits sanded off at the same time.

I wouldn't be surprised to see this changing somewhat in the next decade or so though. Dedicated scientific approaches to ferment, roast, milling, conching, etc. are pretty new in the field and I imagine the higher percentages could see some real dividends from those approaches in terms of making more approachable 100% bars.
 

demultiplexer

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As for how Auro did such a good job with the 100% bar, I can't speak to anything about them in particular, but there is so little margin for error in every step of the way on 100% bars. Screw up the ferment? It is going to be noticeable. Roast it too much or too little? Will absolutely show up in the bar. Insufficient conching? You'll notice it! They're the hardest bars to make and some origins or even particular harvests from an origin are just going to be blasting you with unpleasant notes no matter how well they're processed. Mass market produced 100% from blends sourced all over the place are likely to be a bit more tamed and not as spikey, but they'll also have all the interesting bits sanded off at the same time.
Interesting. I'm not sure if I understand this being specific to 100% bars though - isn't this something that mostly happens when trying to do small batch, single source (or in this case even: single estate, presumably this Saloy estate is geographically quite tiny as well if it's near a village of only ~2k people) chocolate? I.e. you can presumably get a better bar if you pool together a larger amount of product? Or is my intuition on how this should work completely different?

I have one last bar to try and review, depending on how my newborn is going to behave I'll have time for that tonight!