A Perpetual Picture Of Your Car Thread

[Hagbeard]

Just a couple hours before it consumed a rod bearing.

 

[Hagbeard]

Just a couple hours before it consumed a rod bearing.

Ow dude

Have you had it fixed yet?

Yeah, spun it last April and it took almost 6 weeks to get it back, rebuilt mostly stock, but with ACL race bearings, upgraded oil pickup and oil baffle. I'm still sorting out some issues to figure out if I'm comfortable going back to the track.

Nobody wants to see a picture of my car, although I have to say the only Suzukis I saw in California were three 1998-1994 model Swifts. So here is a picture of Julie with her short wheelbase Defender.

Defenders are so awesome.

Not my car, but some new renters moved in to the house on the corner. I suspect this is theirs, to go along with the Audi R8 (which you can just make out past the 5-series). A Lorinser Smart Four-Two:

 

[Hagbeard]

Radiator neck cracked. Car is now sitting parked, because I am sure as hell not going through this whole coolant leak-overheat-head gasket fiasco all over again...new radiator, hoses, and cap all ordered and on the way.

Yup my Saturn is parked right now for a similar reason. The radiator and hose swap went well. The water pump swap is being a dick. One bolt is standing between me and having my car up and running again. I've stripped one socket (my fault, impact), rounded the head off the bolt head (did this by hand with a box wrench), and stripped my bolt out tool (did this by hand too) trying to get the pulley wheel off of the pump. The hacksaw comes out tonight.

Comes in threes. OEM Subaru radiator cracked at the top, so time for an upgrade. Swapped this weekend with all new silicone hoses.

 

[Hagbeard]

Track day.

 

[Hagbeard]

Arasirsul[/url]":1kissz3o]

Hagbeard[/url]":1kissz3o]
Track day.

In theory, that Lotus should wipe the walls with your Subaru. In practice, given that you do this often enough to have your own number meatballs and the Elise is using painter's tape, I'd probably be willing to bet even money that you were faster than the Lotus. (It's possible the Lotus doesn't have numbers because magnets don't stick to it, which is why I wouldn't be willing to give odds. )

Well, my numbers are reusable vinyl low-tack adhesive, so they could stick to the Lotus. The Lotus driver doesn't care about fancy numbers because when he's not racing every month in 24 Hours of Lemons, he's flogging the Lotus and he can't be bothered with style points. That said, yes, it should wipe the walls with my Subie, but I kept up with them because they recently had an alignment (gone wrong) and they found out at the track the car was really loose and unpredictable at the limit so they weren't pushing as hard.

 

[Hagbeard]

I've been happy with Hawk HP+ pads and ATE Superblue fluid - Motul 600 is a good fluid choice too, but it's easier to see the blue when you make the swap from the stock fluid. I go back and forth when I do full fluid swaps so I can see the fluid. The HP+ pads are loud on a daily driver, but I don't care. Don't get HPS unless you only plan to autocross, they'll overheat in more extended use in a lapping session.

I'm sure continuum and others will have pad suggestions. The HP+ work well for me since they're track+street so I don't have to swap to dedicated track pads at the track, and my car isn't fast enough to hit the limits of the HP+ on street tires. That may change since it's been rebuilt as a 2.5L. :devious: (spun bearing lemons make lemonade)

Also, while it's probably not recommended at Silverback's level, I've been very happy with speed bleeders - makes it a one-person job.

 

[Hagbeard]

Slight upgrade - new build is the darker line, wheel measurements.

 

[Hagbeard]

Bolted up a 2.5L block with low-compression pistons to the stock 2.0 heads and stock TD04 turbo. (plus bigger injectors, fuel pump, larger intercooler, exhaust)

 

[Hagbeard]

chong[/url]":3i35i6qz]That's the "hybrid" block setup? What specific bits did you go with for the upgrades? I have my upgrade list laid out, but I'm always on the lookout to see what other people used.

Yup, hybrid, the 2.0 block and crank were shot after the last bearing failure, so my builder had experience with these. If the 2.0 block was fine I probably would have done a 2.2 stroker.

EJ257 block
STi EJ257 crank
JE pistons (Part#: 296349) - made to match the smaller combustion dome in the 2.0 heads
STi rods
STi oil pump
STi intercooler
STi pink injectors
Walbro fuel pump
Stromung dual tip exhaust (got a great deal on a used one)

I'm still using stock downpipe, the old motor had the upipe cat deleted. Also added a Crawford air-oil separator, and will be adding an oil pressure gauge to monitor things better on the track.

Peak boost is only 14 psi and it falls off from there. I always have the option of going with a VF39 turbo if I crave more power or get sick of the power falling off so much at the top end from the small turbo.

 

[Hagbeard]

chong[/url]":2ddxu35q]Doing some suspension upgrades:

Goodbye front sway bar, it was nice knowing you!

So glad I don't live back there and have to deal with that level of rust! Mine's 11 years old and my suspension bits and bolts are just dirty. Any plan to change the springs?

 

[Hagbeard]

chong[/url]":2k8b7n1c]

Any plan to change the springs?

I'll get there eventually. I'll want to do some ride-alongs with others that have done those mods first to get a feel for what I like and don't like. I had to dip into my turbo swap budget for the sways and end links, but it became necessary (stupid Michigan rusty bolt crap).

Definitely ride along if you can. I started with USDM Pinks (spring rates 223/192) up from the stock WRX (163/119) on stock struts (I already had front and rear sways and end links installed). Once I felt the stock struts were done, I switched to RCE Blacks (285/269) with Koni Yellows and Group-N top hats. The drop is about the same as the Pinks and I was afraid it would be harsh, but surprisingly it's not at all. Having adjustable dampers really allows you to dial the harshness to your liking - I'm currently at the 50% stiffness mark on the front struts so there's lots of room to play. I know the roads you have are a bit different than CA so I don't know how stiff you can tolerate. I thought about going with the Feal 441 coilovers, but I couldn't find a ride to check them out and I didn't like the idea of having to service them every 30K.

 

[Hagbeard]

chong[/url]":3lfc3d4e]Are you doing a pro-tune or something like an accessport?

Might as well contribute to the thread while on the topic. I'll be going "stage 2" (seriously a stupid naming convention) myself in the near future, but I'm doing a bit more than turboback while I'm at it...

VF52 by ch0ng, on Flickr

I don't think it's big enough. Are you doing injectors and fuel pump too? Is there a good shop in that area for dyno-tuning?

 

[Hagbeard]

chong[/url]":2dujex7s]

Hagbeard[/url]":2dujex7s]

chong[/url]":2dujex7s]Are you doing a pro-tune or something like an accessport?

Might as well contribute to the thread while on the topic. I'll be going "stage 2" (seriously a stupid naming convention) myself in the near future, but I'm doing a bit more than turboback while I'm at it...

VF52 by ch0ng, on Flickr

I don't think it's big enough. Are you doing injectors and fuel pump too? Is there a good shop in that area for dyno-tuning?

My goal is 300WHP on my 2008 WRX. I want to continue to be able to DD it. I'm looking at the following supporting mods:

1. Downpipe (keeping the stock catback, I don't want it to make too much extra noise)
2. Process West TMIC
3. Fuel Pump
4. Injectors
5. New EBCS
6. Wideband
7. Dyno tune at Turn In Concepts in Cincinatti

That should be enough to hit my goal with some extra head room to push it higher if desired.

300WHP will be nice! I didn't realize TiC was in Cincinatti, I guess you have an excuse to go for a drive. Shame about those Ohio State Troopers though, they'll take all the fun out of the return trip.

 

[Hagbeard]

Bigger intercooler calls for more scoopage:

New gauges:

Of course as I was on my way to get my bi-annual smog for annual registration I got a CEL - front O2 sensor died. If it could have waited an hour that would have been awesome.

Also, new addition to the family - non-S, wife wanted the better gas mileage:

 

[Hagbeard]

chong[/url]":3e4h2nrp]I think its funny that you even look at road noise. Granted I've never been in a Mustang that hasn't been torn down and re-assembled a million times, but they aren't the end all be all of NVH. I drive a Subaru so I can't hear the road noise over the rest of the squeaks and rattles. Those BFGs are going to be great on your car.

I run Hankook Ventus R-S3s on the Subie, at highway speeds they drown out the squeaks and rattles . I've never looked at the Michelins because they aren't extreme performance summer tires, but I might check them out the next round.

 

[Hagbeard]

CUclimber[/url]":bil10y1q]Is it really, really bad that I want a Morgan 3-wheeler? I've always been interested in them as a curiosity, but I saw one at a local dealer this week and now I can't stop thinking about how f'ing fun it would be. And they're not even that expensive...

The Polaris will be a whole lot cheaper, although admittedly with zero old-school charisma.

 

[Hagbeard]

papadage[/url]":2y93c0ym]Aren't those the Kartboys? Did one of your new ones break on you? I have their stuff on my car as well.

Looks like the stock ones. I like the Whiteline adjustable endlinks for the front, I wasn't impressed with the front Kartboy endlinks at all.

 

[Hagbeard]

seannaes[/url]":bewif7ag]What in particular would you recommend for a street car used for beginner (and presumably eventually intermediate) level track driving?

Get a donut like Silverback mentions. It's not HANS-level protection but even just for a day of track driving with no incidents your neck will thank you. Pulling a lateral G with a few extra pounds on your head all day long adds up.

I wouldn't bother with a big brake kit, a combo street/track pad and brake fluid will make all the difference. Stainless lines if you want a little extra, but those will have a very small improvement relative to the pads and fluid. If you get further into it then you can look at dedicated track pads that you swap out at the track, but initially I'd go with a combo pad (plus they're good to go for daily spirited driving). Make sure the pads you check mention track use - some will mention autocross and those are not what you want since most autocross runs last a minute at best. I run Hawk HP+ and have been happy with them for track duty.

 

[Hagbeard]

Arasirsul[/url]":127ja8tt]The major difference in Snell's standards between M (Motorcycle) and SA (Special Applications-- in other words, car racing) helmets is the liner: SA helmets have a nomex/fire resistant liner, motorcycle ones can have something cheaper that'll melt directly to your face in case of fire. At least for anything resembling "affordable" helmets, the weights are going to be similar between the M-rated and SA-rated model of the same helmet, so don't worry too much about that.

The other major difference is the impact testing. SA helmets are tested for multiple impacts such as bouncing your head off every interior surface in a roll-over, while motorcycle helmets are tested for a single impact such as bouncing your head off the ground when you lay the bike down.

 

[Hagbeard]

Sounds like an excuse to buy some forged wheels. :devious:

 

[Hagbeard]

ZPrime[/url]":1oqx2yaz]

Hagbeard[/url]":1oqx2yaz]Sounds like an excuse to buy some forged wheels. :devious:

Not at the price of forged vs cast. I would love to pick up forged wheels, but when you can buy like 2 or 3 sets of standard flow-formed / cast stuff for the price, it is kind of insane, unless you really need those extra 2-3 pounds of rotating mass gone.

Forged wouldn't crack, it's not all about reducing mass.

 

[Hagbeard]

Miwa[/url]":ihnv1q2i]

Hagbeard[/url]":ihnv1q2i]Forged wouldn't crack, it's not all about reducing mass.

Or you just bend the hell out of the barrels and need to replace them anyway... Forged isn't a magic defense against road hazards. You just have less mass for equivalent strength.

He cracked a wheel and wasn't aware of the hit that caused it. If you're going to dent a forged wheel you're going to feel that in your fillings, you're not going to have a slow leak and wonder why and where that came from. That's all my (in jest) comment was about.

 

[Hagbeard]

chong[/url]":2gjmxl9q]Speaking of mods...

New Intake Gaskets
Wideband 02 Sensor with Guage
New fuel pump
New boost controller
New MAF Sensor

Not pictured:

New Turbo
New Intercooler
New Down pipe

That should make for a pretty fun performance boost in the WRX.

How big'd you go on the turbo? Did you already do injectors? Tuning at TiC? Stay with topmount IC? How much power are you expecting to hit? I confess I catch myself trolling NASIOC for a turbo upgrade from the TD04, but then I remember the impending double bathroom remodel and the money that will be pouring out. I'll just live vicariously through you.

 

[Hagbeard]

chong[/url]":3gg6vxk1]
Standard VF52 Swap. Not doing injectors (yet). eTune from Torqued Performance though I'm considering an eTune from Clark Turner. I don't really want to drive ~5 hours down to TiC after swapping on all of the new parts. Process West TMIC. Proven power bragging on NASIOC leads me to believe the setup will get me close to the 300hp ballpark. No matter where it shakes out, it should be a pretty decent upgrade for my 2008.

I need to track down some STI shocks and springs to go with the sway bars that I put on last summer at some point here too.

Nice! For suspension I'd seriously consider the GTWORX/Bilstein setup for your car. Not having that option I went with RCE Blacks and Koni yellows and I was afraid of it being too harsh - honestly I didn't notice a difference from the USDM STi Pink springs in normal driving. I don't think the Bilstein setup is adjustable though if that matters to you.

 

[Hagbeard]

chong[/url]":17ejxzf9]
My thing with suspension is that I'm not buying anything else (except for maybe the STi bits) without riding in someone's car with that setup. For daily driving, how a suspension feels is pretty darn subjective so I want to make sure I like it before I buy something.

I get that. I was that way until I couldn't find a ride with what I wanted, said screw it, and figured if I hated it I could sell it for nearly full price on NASIOC and consider the loss a rental fee. Adjustable dampers go a long way to tuning the ride to your liking, that helped ease my concerns when dropping the cash.

 

[Hagbeard]

Arcturus[/url]":xy9yh439]

crazydee[/url]":xy9yh439]I think Audi US will be interested in this dealership. Might even do an audit of their inspection records.

Agreed. Good on them for fixing the issues, but the whole point of buying a CPO car is that there *aren't* any issues.

I'd get an oil analysis done as soon as you can. That's so beyond what you'd expect for normal driving and the fact they didn't even change the air filter (and discover all of that) is really suspect.

 

[Hagbeard]

Thallium[/url]":3q81zg9x]

continuum[/url]":3q81zg9x]I dunno, APR claims gains, but that's obviously with other mods (with and without the CAI) and definitely with an ECU tune...

http://www.goapr.com/products/intake_ca ... 0tfsi.html

APR likes inflating their numbers a bit or saying "You'll get 30 horsepower with this mod! (even though we did this dyno run using a car that also had a ton of other mods)".

APR also likes running way too much fuel and doing all kinds of other stupid shit. I would not trust anything that comes from that company as far as I can throw it.

I'm friends with the owner of United Motorsport, so I might be a little biased, but I've seen him rant and rave about how bad their software is, and I've seen countless cars start out APR and move to UM and magically all of their problems are gone, plus they dyno better.

I personally wouldn't trust anyone's off-the-shelf tune on a FI car. Dyno every time.

That's one sweet rental for sure! Bet the sound was intoxicating.

For sure, saw a yellow R passing through an intersection yesterday and he stabbed the throttle and got off it - the bark and burble was pretty bad ass.

 

[Hagbeard]

Hell, I'm about to spend $3000 on brake repairs for a 13-year-old WRX and the only thing that would make me get rid of it is if I traded it in for a new one.

"Repairs," that's what I tell my wife when I make upgrades to failing (and sometimes perfectly functional) parts. For $3K those "repairs" better include a BBK.

 

[Hagbeard]

Ick, what kind of crappy dealer service department is this?

Sounds as bad as Nick Alexander near downtown LA. Twice my wife has scheduled appointments weeks in advance (one was a recall where Mini contacted HER that the parts were available) and twice they get partway through the job before noticing they don't have what they need and the car has to sit for a few days.

 

[Hagbeard]

Turned over 100K miles last week, just over 12 years old, went canyon carving on new Pilot Supersports. Jury is still out, but new tires with full tread can be a bit squishy compared to old tires down to the wear bars (and the olds were Hankook Ventus R-S3s).

 

[Hagbeard]

Just a weird angle, rears are actually set a hair less than stock at -1.4 degrees.

 

[Hagbeard]

The PSS and Ventus RS3 are two entirely separate classes of tires. PSS aren't going to grip as well in dry, but will be less hair-raising in the rain. I came from Potenza RE11 over to PSS (and also gained ~110 HP and lost several hundred pounds) in my recent car switch, the PSS don't stick anywhere near like the RE11 (which is a class-equal competitor to the R-S3). The PSS are so much safer-feeling in standing water though.

In the dry performance sense I probably shouldn't have bought them since I knew they'd be a step down, but with the super el nino coming I wanted something really good in the rain. The PSS happen to sacrifice a little dry grip for a ton of wet according to this Car and Driver shootout. Things were really sketchy on the old almost-at-the-wear-bar RS3s during the one big rainstorm we had in September, and if this year will be anything like 1997 we'll be driving through the rain quite a bit.

 

[Hagbeard]

Comparing PSS and RE11s on two different cars and claiming it's the tire improving ride quality doesn't seem exactly fair.

This summer they resurfaced our asphalt street and botched it, whatever the process was for laying the asphalt surfacing material they dragged something over the surface and created mini waves - think small versions of wave-swept lake/ocean bottom or dirt road. Driving down the street on the RS3s lit up everything that can possibly vibrate and make noise. The full tread PSS are marginally (maybe 2/10) better driving over that than the nearly bald RS3s (if their quality on that surface is 0/10), but I wouldn't brag about the degree of comfort improvement. My wife probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference, she'd still have to shout to express her opinion while driving over it.

Love the Caddie Da Fish.

 

[Hagbeard]

Dr Gitlin[/url]":25t8unc2]

Welp, you'd have to be Honda faithful to drop $170k (base) on the new NSX... Fast with cheap interior = $90k GT-R

It's also a hybrid so maybe it'll be like the i8 and do 20mpg if you drive it like me, or 35 mpg if you drive it like a boring person?

The fact that they've delayed the car another year and moved the engine from transverse to longitudinal doesn't fill me with confidence.

As CUClimber says, picking anything other than the 570S at that price point is an odd choice. The 650S is so incredibly competent, and it looks like McLaren are constantly improving. I got to spend an hour in the passenger seat of a P1 today and all I can say is holy shit.

I'm wondering though, if you get an NSX can you have it serviced at your regular Honda dealership? That might be a consideration for someone who is hell-bent on "practicality".

"Thanks for spending almost $200K, here's a base Civic for a loaner, LOL."

 

[Hagbeard]

Evil Ficus! Whatever you do, keep it in a pot, don't put it in the ground! At least down here in Florida that tree could grow into a lot consuming monster in no time at all.

++ Sidewalk/patio/street destroying monsters, burn them all.

 

[Hagbeard]

 

[Hagbeard]

Got this 2002 Z06 at the beginning of the year:

Hawt! A little more than I want to pay for a dedicated track car (and it wouldn't fit through my carport), but what a performance bargain.

 

[Hagbeard]

chong[/url]":n0c6m8iy]
It was then time to put shiny new stuff back in it:
Untitled by ch0ng, on Flickr

Nice, brand new VF52? My heart says it wants to get rid of the TD04, my wallet says it needs to wait.

 

[Hagbeard]

The new turbo is probably glorious. The poor TD04 is breathless by 6K RPM.

 

[Hagbeard]

chong[/url]":3que6j83]Units from companies like Crawford come with mounting brackets. Nothing you couldn't fab yourself.

Crawford also makes a universal kit. I'm running a Crawford, had to relocate the cruise control module on the firewall to fit it.